Saturday, January 26, 2008

Frankfort MI

Frankfort MI

The fish cleaning station at Frankfort MI

Leaving Leland MI under some good weather conditions, we anticipated a beautiful day. Although nice, the infamous Lake Michigan winds picked up, along with the size of the waves, making the ride a little less than comfortable. We were happy to reach the harbor ahead of about ten other Looper boats. Frankfort was hosting a fishing tournament and nearly every slip was filled. Fortunately, we had reservations along with Colonel's Lady. We planned on staying one night. And, now you know the definition of "plan"...it changes with the wind! We were to have another long, unplanned and unscheduled stay in Frankfort.


Ron hauls our bags of fresh water salmon back to boat

Just before we entered the harbor, we passed by the beautiful and pristine sand dunes of the Sleeping Bear National Park. Described in the guide books as simply breathtaking from the water, this author concurs. With white sand beaches and the backdrop of forest, the sight is awesome...even from a mile off shore.

Our prize for a long delay in Frankfort...a cooler full of fresh water salmon

After tying up to the dock, paying for our stay, and tidying up the boat, we decided to explore our surroundings. The marina is fronted by a lovely city park which, on this day, was hosting a small circus. Unfortunately for us, the last show of the day was already underway so we wandered around and through the "circus" enjoying the elephants swinging their trunks to and fro...as elephants are wont to do. Then dinner on Colonel's Lady...the last of our current supply of bratwursts.

Taking in the Big Top our first day in Frankfort MI
Plans are to leave in the morning but morning brings bad news as the winds are up along with the waves. Not only that but it is raining and cool. We are so disappointed because we were planning to explore Green Bay and get in a little fishing for the boys. If we get stuck here, our plans will have to be scrapped because Labor Day is getting close! I meandered to the dock office to pay the bill. While there, I commiserated with the dock master regarding our dilemma and, as we have found all along our route, how grand these people can be. He reached under the desk to a small refrigerator and gave me a bag of fresh water salmon fillets for our dining pleasure. No payment was allowed...just enjoy! You've never had fish so good.


Contemplating our "luck" at the Manistee MI Indian Casino
Well, another delay. Not only were the winds not cooperating but Colonel's Lady developed a fuel leak and we waited while they found a mechanic and were able to get underway. This meant another few nites in Frankfort so we rented a car to explore the surroundings including a trip to the Indian Casino just "down the street" in Manistee MI. Ron and Molly added another casino and some poker chips to their collection while Steve and I toured the casino and all its artifacts including the "one-armed bandits; aptly named! The last night at the casino, Ron ran to the local WalMart, at midnight, to pick up a vacuum sealing machine for our bounty of fish, compliments of the lady fishermen who won the Lady's Tournament.


The swans were daily guests off of our swim platform

Seems the Benzie Fishing Tournament was being held Friday, Saturday and Sunday; Friday was the women's portion of the contest. The rules of the tournament do not allow more than the daily limit of fish on board a boat so if there is a need to get rid of some fish, they are offered to anyone nearby. Well, Colonel's Lady was in the slip next to the winning boat and were asked if they wanted some fish. Of course you know the answer! Little did Ron know what he was going to get...16 HUGE fresh water salmon! Now, what do you do with that many fish on a boat with a little freezer? Share them with your friends.
So that was the reason for the vacuum sealer. The fishermen even cleaned and filleted the fish for us. Since our three day trip to Green Bay has had to be scrapped, all four of us were ecstatic to be the recipients of such a grand collection of fish.

The 480-ft tall sand dunes at Sleeping Bear National Park

Finally, Mother Nature has given us a calm day. Relatively speaking, of course. We decide to try the 50 mile crossing of Lake Michigan to Sturgeon Bay WI. A sister ship had arrived and docked in the slip next to us and is owned by a great couple, Fred and Geri, who summer in Sturgeon Bay WI and winter in Bradenton FL. They were planning on leaving either Saturday or Sunday but since we were going on Saturday, they decided to accompany us. If the "locals" were going to go with us, we decided it must be OK. The weather report from fisherman out on the water, via radio, was for calm seas so off we go, fingers crossed....




Monday, January 21, 2008

On to Lake Michigan

We leave St. Ignace and Mackinaw Island
Fishtown...famous historic area in Leland MI

The Neighborhood next to marina, Leland MI

Leaving the Mackinaw Bridge in our wake on the way to Petoskey MI

Cocktail Hour at the Gazebo, Petoskey MI
Ron, Molly and Claire at Harbor Springs MI

It's January, 2008 already so guess I'd better get caught up!
We left St. Ignace to head to Harbor Springs MI and our first stop on the downhill portion of our Adventure. Lake Michigan offers many posibilities for cruising inclusive of two coastlines to follow. We decide to "harbor hop" down the eastern shoreline to just south of Grand Traverse Bay, cross from Frankfort MI to Sturgeon Bay and then Green Bay, after which we "harbor hop'd" down to Chicago via the western shore.
Little Traverse Bay, our first area of cruising, is home to a number of quaint towns including Harbor Springs and Petoskey. Mother Nature seemed cooperative when we left St. Ignace but on our way she decide to let us know that a front was on its way. With the winds increasing from an uncomfortable direction and all slips filled in Harbor Springs, we opt for Petoskey just across the Bay. What a fortunate decision as we will be weather-bound for 5 days.

Colonel's Lady pulled into a slip just across from us and after getting settled, we find there are quite a number of Loopers present. This calls for socialization and story telling! Cocktail hour is organized for the gazebo area of the lovely public grounds surrounding the marina for the first evening on shore.

Of the three main town areas on Little Traverse Bay, Petoskey serves as the center of commerce and tourism. In days gone by, Petoskey was a lumber and manufacturing center but is now a waterfront community known for its charming downtown, historic homes, its waterfront park area and beaches. Of particular note, the area is popular with rock hounds and tourists alike for hunting the state stone: the Petoskey Stone. Shined up from its years of lying in the water or on the beach, it is a very pretty glacial stone of varying size. Molly brought one home for her souvenir! I passed. Another pastime is fishing from the waterfront and though the weather was not particularly inviting, nearly every day we saw small boats go out for a chance to catch the Big One.
We spent an enjoyable five days here while waiting for Mother Nature to quiet down. Lake Michigan can be quite unpleasant when the winds are up! of which we were to have a close and personal knowledge later on in our trip. But, while in Petoskey, we took advantage of the shopping opportunities to re-provision, Molly had to have some dental work done and the local Indian population has a casino that required us to make our semi-annual contribution.
Since our stay was much prolonged, we rented a car to tour the other towns nearby including Harbor Springs and Charlevoix, infamous as the summer home of Jon Benett's parents. Harbor Springs was quaint and definitely a tourist town originally settled by the Ottawa Indians followed by the French fur traders then lumbering. In its later life, it became famous as the summer outpost for such famous families as the Ford's, Upjohn's and Gambles. Interestingly, we saw Elaine Ford's yacht leaving Little Traverse Bay. Her yacht was known to us as it had spent a winter at our marina in Miami Beach. Harbor Springs was definitely high end. We had an enjoyable lunch at the marina/hotel before heading off to our next stop, Charlevoix.
Ron and Molly had ordered a travel guide and chart packet from a local marina so we drove through the main village on our way. Another quaint village filled with tourists and shopping and dining opportunities. It is located on an isthmus between Lake Michigan, Round Lake and Lake Charlevoix and again is noted for its famous names summering in the area. Castle Farms, built in 1918 by Albert Loeb of Sears and Roebuck fame, is located in the area. With traffic heavy and shopping not on our agenda, we opted for the "drive-thru" as our visit to Charlevoix. Most notable, next to the plethora of shopping opportunities and Victorian-style homes, were the planters hung from the light posts along the main thoroughfare. Simply awesome!
The eastern shore is famous for having a safe harbor about every twenty miles so when the winds died, we set our course for Leland on our way to Frankfort. Grand Traverse Bay was unfortunately eliminated from our travel plans due to our Petoskey delay and because the draw was more "tourism". I was disappointed because, from trips in years past, Traverse City is a wonderful place to spend a few days...which we were getting short on! There are great shops including a Forever Christmas store I was eagerly looking forward to, good restaurants and charming locale. Guess we'll have to save that re-visit for our land yacht.
Leland is known as one of the more picturesque stops on the eastern shore. Famous for its Fish Town, it is equally famous for its marina since, literally, they turn no-one away, regardless. We were to experience the "no-one is turned away" philosophy. There were no slips available but never mind! Both Colonel's Lady and Wild Turkey were simply placed in the middle of two yacht slips, with yachts in them, and tied to the end of the slips. No problem...just hop off your boat onto the finger pier and you're off to explore the town.
Fish Town is a National Landmark District and is home to an authentic Great Lakes fishing tug. Old (and I mean old) fishing shanties now house an operating fish house and a variety of specialty shops along with downhome restaurants. Seems like each little town along this shore offers an opportunity to leave a few hard earned dollars behind! Steve is especially enchanted with the smoked fish offered by the local fisheries so we stock ed up on a good supply and headed back to the boat for a night's sleep before heading to Frankfort, our next stop before crossing to Sturgeon Bay WI.
After a good night's rest, we leave early in light winds for Frankfort. We, fortunately, have reservations which is a good thing! since there is a fishing tournament in town. While we are planning to stay only overnight, Mother Nature again has other plans and we end up spending five days here in Frankfort. But, it was a very fun stay.












Our first day was spent cleaning up the boat, checking out the Big Top and the local park followed by a late dinner on Colonel's Lady. In the morning, I went to the marina office to confirm our stay for yet another night and while there, mentioned to the owner/operator that we sure would like to get some fishing in and were, in fact, heading to Green Bay for three days of fishing...if Mother Nature cooperated. Lo and Behold, he reaches into his refrigerator below the desk and pulls out a package of Lake Salmon for me...us. Let me tell you how quickly I ran back to the boat with my treasure in hand and promptly bragged to Steve that I must not be the ugliest 60 year old in town! otherwise I wouldn't be bearing gifts from the marina operator. Let me tell you how delicious that fish was...on an equal par with the salmon Steve brings home from Alaska...if not better.












The second day brings another bad weather forecast so we decide to rent a car for a few days and check out the locale. The shoreline from Leland to Frankfort was so very interesting with 480 foot tall sand dunes, sandy beaches interspersed with pine forests, and white beaches. Along with being a tourist town, Frankfort is also a center of commerce so we were able to reprovision although we couldn't find any of the famous MI cherries or cherry pie...we were a little late in the season. We did find corn and tomatoes which are, in my book, even a better find. And, we found another Indian Casino. Ron and Molly play poker whenever they have a chance so, of course, we spent a couple of nights as guests of the local Indian tribe.












We are disappointed to learn we'll be stuck in Frankfort at least thru Friday. Not disappointed in the town or the people because there is plenty to do and see but disappointed because our time is running short as we have to be in Racine WI by Labor Day and Chicago shortly thereafter. More delay means that we'll have to cut time from somewhere and the only somewhere is the Green Bay area...no fishing, no cruising the area. And we were so looking forward to the guys fishing for three days while Molly and I did "girl things".













Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Drummond Island to Mackinaw Island

Drummond Island to St. Ignace and Mackinaw Island
High Speed Ferry to Mackinaw Island

August 11th. Time to get moving on. We left Drummond Island amid clear sunny skies but with a forecast of stormy seas within the next 24 hours, we drop our plans to stop at DeTour and go directly to St. Ignace, on the northwest corner of MI but still in Lake Huron. The weather gods are with us and we have the most beautiful day of cruising.


Sea Buoy marking our turn to St. Ignace


Leaving the North Channel behind us, we set course to take us past Mackinaw Island. South of the Straits of Mackinac, St. Ignace is a small town on the western side of the Mackinaw Bridge. From here, ferries take crowds of people (tourists) to Mackinaw Island about every 1 hour. Father James Marquette established a mission in St. Ignace in 1671 and a tombstone marks his grave overlooking the water with a park commemorating his great works.



St. Ignace Lighthouse marking entrance to harbor


About six miles from Mackinaw Island, we begin feeling the effects of the many high-speed ferries moving back and forth either from St. Ignace or Mackinaw City to Mackinaw Island. After cruising on flat waters, we are met with the rock and roll created by the many crossings. We make our way into the marina, fuel and settle in for the rest of the day.



We're on our way to Mackinaw Island, bikes in tow


Given that there are miles and miles of tourist attractions on Mackinaw Island, we elect to take our bikes to cover as much ground as possible since we are only going for the day. Despite all the other area attractions, Mackinaw Island is definitely the draw. The ferry is loaded with people...and their bikes! Off we go.


Mackinaw Island is only three miles long by two wide. Approaching from any direction, the island dominates the view. The Indians are said to have held the island as a sacred place and after our tour, one can understand their devotion.


Though we had hoped to stay at the island marina, after we arrived and walked our bikes to the main thoroughfare, it was obvious that our travel angels were holding our hands, once again. There is no motorized transportation on the island; one either walks, bikes or is transported by horse-drawn carriage. Luggage and provisions are moved from the wharf by the same mode. So, guess what "odor" permeates the downtown surrounds? Dependent on the wind direction, the marina can be quite the unpleasant place to stay.



One of the many horse-drawn carriages

Once off the ferry, bikes in tow, we walked into the historic downtown waterfront village. Supposedly reminiscent of an 1800's Victorian village, there are a myriad of Victorian homes with locals, as guides, dressed in period costume. We were impressed with the number of fudge and ice cream storefronts more than with any other aspect of the town. One tourist was heard to say that there are more fudge and ice cream stores on Mackinaw Island than in the whole state of MI. We believed him.


Our first stop was at a quaint restaurant for a healthy breakfast before heading out on our bike tour.


The island was once a commercial depot for area trappers and traders before being taken over by the British during the American Revolution. There are many of the original building still standing and can be toured including Fort Mackinac, the British outpost. Re-captured by the Americans twenty years after the Revolution, the fort is today home to military reenactments, bugle and drum corps music and the requisite cannon shot.


While we did not climb the hill to tour, Mackinaw Island has a very old and still used hotel; the Grand Hotel. It is said to have the world's longest veranda. Having "boat clothes" on, we defer to our cameras to hold the memory in our minds. The Hotel hosts many a wedding, family reunion, and corporate meetings during the open months.


The Grand Hotel


We escape the "citiness" and meander up the road intent on circumventing the throngs of tourists. There is a 12 mile road which goes around the whole island and while Ron and Molly opt to go just to the Hole in the Wall, Steve and I decide to bike around the island. Everywhere, there is a profusion of colorful flowers and perfect landscaping. Certainly, a lot of passion is put into making the island not only an historic visit but a pleasant and beautiful one as well.


Our first stop is the Hole in the Wall. But, before we can see the sight, we have to climb a whole lot of stairs. Either we're getting old or we're awfully out of shape. I opt for the second choice as certainly we're not OLD but living on a boat does not support a health club!

Hole-in-the-Wall at Artist's Point


The hole is a natural limestone formation with a 30' wide hole gouged out by waves and glaciers over the ages. The requisite pictures are taken after which Steve and I set off on our circumnavigation of the island by bike. Away from the city, the island reverts back to mostly natural topography. Punctuated by a cottage from time to time, hills are covered by trees and the beach beckons to take a dip. Hot as it was, we pedaled on until we reached a road that simply went up. However, at its junction, there was an ice cream stand to cool one off.


We looked at each other and took the plunge...uphill it was! Besides, there was a cemetery somewhere up there and I love to meander through the old places and imagine the lives of those who reside therein. And beyond, the remnants of a military outpost that was said to offer stunning views of the opposing lake shore.



Western side of Mackinaw Island


And stunning it was! Ron and Molly have lived in Hawaii. Showing them this picture, I commented at how similar it was to places on Oahu and the main island. From the top of the island, looking down, the color of the water looked as azure blue as anything in the Pacific.



So, you think Steve's exhausted?


While I toured the old cemetery, Steve took a siesta. What he missed! There were graves dating back to the early 1600's including one in which was interred a Bishop of China. He was an American, I believe, of Chinese ancestry who, according to the plaque, lived in China his adult life and wished to be returned to this very island. Along with him were several family members. One wonders what the island looked like "back then".




Looking down on the Grand Hotel


We ended our tour as it had begun; in the waterfront town just down from the Grand Hotel. Since it was nearing 3 o'clock and our designated rendezvous time with Ron and Molly, we biked on by the Starbucks (yes, there is even one here on this outpost island!) and scooted on back to the ferry landing.



Some of the Victorian homes on the waterfront


Our tour complete, we head on back to St. Ignace reveling in the fact that someone else is driving the boat. It is a pleasure to just sit back and let someone else worry about all the wakes, waves and traffic, landing the boat at the dock and disgorging its passengers.


Back on our boats, we're anticipating a fresh blueberry pie for dinner; the last of our Georgian Bay pickings.

Tomorrow, it's off to Harbor Springs MI, dependent on weather. There is a front moving in so our plans to stop at Beaver Island are scrapped in lieu of reaching a more distant point in case we get weathered in. We are to discover the decision was well made.



The stinky Mackinaw Island Marina

Sidney isn't pleased with his humans

On our return to the boat, we're greeted by an unhappy dog...after all, we've left him for nearly the entire day. Heaven forbid! But, after a treat or two, a walk in the park and a hearty dinner, all is forgiven. Rest up, doggy, as tomorrow looks to be not the most comfortable day of cruising!


Leaving Drummond Island on our way to St. Ignace

















Saturday, September 29, 2007

Little Current to Drummond Island

From Little Current to Drummond Island, USofA

Commerce on Lake Huron
Heading out of Little Current, we opt for the northern edge of Manitoulin Island, Ontario. Had time been on our side, we would have headed north to the more remote shoreline of the North Channel. The north shore meant long stretches of wilderness with the occasional small town accessible only by boat or small float plane. We would have stopped first at the Benjamin Islands just NW of Little Current known for their spectacular scenery and landscape. Instead, our passage skirts the southern boundary of the channel leading to the Benjamins. We look, with sadness, at what would have been a breathtaking anchorage and continue SW to Gore Bay.


Sunrise over Gore Bay, North Channel

Gore Bay is situated at the end of a bay; one of many bays on the northern shore of Manitoulin Island. Manitoulin Island, the largest fresh water island in the world, is oddly shaped. The north shore, bordering the North Channel, has many bays and an undulating shoreline. The south shore, bordering Lake Huron, slopes gradually to the Lake with sand beaches and shoals lining its coastline.


Manitoulin Island has a history of folklore. It is described as a "kind of crossroads of the spirit world;ancient Indian gods and heroes dwell alongside the European explorers of folklore and history". Dotted with as many as 100 inland lakes and streams, it takes just an amateur fisherperson (or so we're told!) to catch one of the chinook salmon, rainbow trout, perch or whitefish swimming about. While there are marinas/ports to pull into with a bustling city beside them, most of the island is untamed wilderness.


Our dinner companions at Rocky Racoon, Gore Bay

We spent just one night at Gore Bay as we were watching the clock tick. How we hate to have to keep to a schedule but the clock is ticking and we need to be in Chicago by September 6th.


Enjoying a cocktail evening aboard Colonel's Lady

We're planning to arrive in Drummond in three days so that means we haven't planned our trip all that well. The descendants of the Ojibway, Odawa and Pottawotami Indian tribes host lavish pow-wows every year about this time and had we not lingered in the previous portions of our trip, we would have been able to attend one here on Manitoulin Island. As it is, we must cruise everyday to meet our deadline.

Gore Bay is one of the islands' busiest ports small though it is. There are plenty of marine support services but the town is also host to many campers and fishermen along with bed and breakfast's set in very old, restored homes.

Wild Turkey at Anchor, Covered Portage Cove, Killarney Bay

There are other places to stop but Meldrum Bay is an easy days' cruise from Gore Bay. Meldrum is a port of entry for US boaters arriving from the US. It was originally a very busy commercial port, especially for fish, but since the fishing dried up in the 1940's, Meldrum Bay serves as a tourist environment for mariners. Anticipating our arrival in the US tomorrow, we schedule a barbeque feast to use up our Canadian Beef. Meat from Canada, including pork and chicken, is not allowed into the US. Given that we are not too concerned about bringing meat into the US, we eat up the beef by having steaks for dinner with Ron and Molly from Colonel's Lady. We still have pork tenderloin, chicken and a flank steak in the freezer with hopes that Customs doesn't inspect our freezer! No mad cow disease in chickens or pork is our justification.

Becky celebrates her birthday today...let's see, 36? Can hardly believe how old that makes me!!

A working lighthouse greets us as we enter the Gore Bay Marina


Steve's Northern caught in Baie Fine
It's August 10th and we're off to the USof A via Drummond Island, just north of Mackinaw Island by about 50 miles. We're ready to be home. Our adventure has been indescribably wonderful 'til now but since we have to head south, and we're so close, the heartstrings are pulling us towards our own country. Cruising today has probably been one of the most beautiful; passing many an inviting cove beckoning us to anchor, commercial ships carrying ore to Canadian ports, cruisers flying by us in both directions, sea gulls crying out for food, fish jumping and azure waters. What more could one ask for? Home!! We arrive at Drummond Island about 12:30, clear Customs (even with all that Canadian meat in our freezer: the Customs agent said they wouldn't know what to do with it anyway so just keep our mouths closed...which we did) and settle in for the night. We're off to DeTour tomorrow or if the weather holds, we'll penetrate deeper into US territory and go to St. Ignace. Mackinaw Island Marina is booked solid with a significant waiting line. There is a ferry from St. Ignace to Mackinaw, and we can take our bikes, so that makes the decision for us. Still, no phone service from here...guess Cingular is not all it's cracked up to be.

The Captain at the helm of the dinghy


Entrance to Baie Fine looking into Frazer Bay
Tomorrow, we're off to the next destination and a few days of rest after beating all the way from Little Current to Drummond. We know we've missed some prime cruising grounds but unfortunately, since we have spent so much time in earlier locations, we couldn't linger in the North Channel. Another day!


What an adventure this has been. We have seen some spectacular places, met wonderful people along the way, found cruising grounds unique to Canada, bypassed more than we were able to stop at, and have fallen in love with the area. God willing, we will be able to return and share with you some new areas, anchorages and friends. We're two thirds finished and are now anticipating our cruise down Lake Michigan and a 10 day stop in Chicago.














Friday, August 24, 2007

Georgian Bay to North Channel

Cruising the Georgian Bay

Sarah, the picture below is for you. The Canadian Loon is displayed, in all its glory, on the bow of our neighbor boat while docked at Beacon Bay Marina in Penetanguishene Ontario. We saw just a few "live" ones in our journey while our neighbor had not only this lovely sculpture but probably about 20 in his saloon!
The Canadian Loon, Beacon Bay Marina
July 21st. Beacon Bay Marina, Penetanguishene Ontario, or Penetang to the locals, was to be our home for the next several days as Steve managed to herniate a disc (Nurse Claire diagnosing!) while helping to land a boat at Big Chute. While he lay in bed, drugged with pain killers and NSAID's, I roamed the local territory, on foot with Sidney, and on my bike. Penetang marked the beginning of the part of our Adventure that we had been having nightmares about.

The Georgian Bay. Technically part of Lake Huron, Georgian Bay is separated by a series of islands stretching from Manitoulin Island to the west (and the largest freshwater island in the world) south to Bruce Peninsula. Covering 6000 square miles and over 90,000 islands, the Bay is 120 miles long and 50 miles wide. The French explorer, Samuel de Champlain, came here in 1615 and proclaimed the bay the sweetwater sea.

The northern coast is the most widely traveled because of the many anchorages, small towns with friendly marinas and the protected nature of the small craft channel. The southern coast is not as cruiser friendly although there are several towns with marinas to tie up to. Truly, there are thousands of islands for one to explore. The Small Craft Channel not withstanding, there are hundreds of miles of water to explore either on our boat or with the dinghy into the less "cruiser-worthy" waters. Though we certainly have our trepidations, we are eager to begin the most anticipated portion of our Adventure.

Penetanguishene, our first stop, is the oldest town in Ontario and the second oldest in Canada; a military base back in the late 1700's. Soon after the beginning of the War of 1812, the British Navy selected the narrow bay for its naval base and the town grew precipitously after that. Then, French Canadians and farmers from Quebec settled in the area and Penetang became a dual-language oasis and is today the home of one of the only dual-language schools.

Penetanguishene Bay, itself, is ringed by marinas attesting to the popularity of boating during the summer months. The town is now more of a tourist destination complete with a re-creation of the military and naval base of the 1800's, rows of condos on the beach, and charter cruises on the Bay. Steve saw only the inside of his cabin because he was sentenced to bedrest until his back healed. While he recuperated, I took the opportunity to avail myself of "local knowledge".
Our neighbors, on both sides, were "locals" and had traveled many times in and through the Bay and were only too happy to share their information...true of all boaters no matter where! From them, we learned that traveling the small craft channel, except in selected areas, was not for a boat of our size. In fact, the locals thought anyone with a boat over 32' was too big to safely traverse the Bay on the small craft channel. However, with good planning, we could seesaw in and out of the small craft channel and partake of everything the Georgian Bay had to offer while enjoying the essence of the entire region. Sounded like a plan....
Float Plane at Henry's Fishcamp
July 27th. We're on our way! Steve has healed enough for us to venture out so we meandered to the fuel dock for a "top-off" as there are few opportunities to buy diesel for the next 100 miles or so. Another beautiful day, one of many we were to encounter through the rest of the month. We had charted a path to our first anchorage that would take us through safe water, across the small craft channel near Beausoleil Island, then up to Port Rawson Bay. We meandered through many islands in safely deep water until we reached a lovely large bay with several smaller embayments. Our mouths were respectfully open as we marveled at the beauty of the area: quiet and peaceful, distant from civilization, clear waters, fish jumping everywhere, fellow cruisers anchored in coves nearby. Why had we waited so long to visit this area? I had a feeling that when the time came to leave, we would be hard-pressed to head south.
Rising Moon over Port Rawson Bay
Upon entering the Bay, we first encountered a gathering of Viking sportfishermen. Apparently, there had been a rendezvous over the weekend but not all the boats had left. Seeing them gave us some comfort because if that size of boat with its draft could cruise through these waters, surely we would have no problem! Perhaps all the stories we had heard were not true?
We had chosen, as our first anchorage, the lower or northern portion of the Bay, but to our surprise, the Looper Flotilla of 25 boats, was rafted together in that same area. The Bay is large so it isn't a problem, and in retrospect, a benefit because we found another little embayment where only a few boats could venture and it is here we drop the hook. This idyllic spot (there will be so many more!) will be our home for the next three days.
So what is a Looper Flotilla? There are probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 boats doing the Loop this year. Twice during the year, in Penetang (summer) and again at Joe Wheeler in Alabama (fall), many of the boats gather together for a social reunion to share notes, listen to the "experts" who have "been there-done that", and generally touch base before heading out on the next leg of the journey. Tradition has it that a group of boats will be led by the local expert through the Georgian Bay to the North Channel hitting some of the areas' highlights. About 25 boats is all that can be comfortably guided so it was first come-first served on a reservation basis.
Sidney is ready to go exploring. He is so Pavlovian. After 5 years on the boat with us, he knows that after the anchor is set, the dinghy comes down. He's ready to go for a walk. We're ready to go exploring!
The area is full of choices: should we go visit the Flotilla? check out the other boats at anchor? go fishing? take a dinghy ride through the many streams we see? It's all too much. So, we head over to the Flotilla to check out their plans. The Flotilla was formed at the July Rendezvous in Penetang. Headed by a local couple, this group of boaters had paid to be lead through the Georgian Bay to the beginning of the North Channel. While we are not shy of large groups, we wanted our own itinerary with the freedom to stop and go as we pleased but many of the "loopers" we had previously met were there and we ended up staying for cocktail hour. The next day, they were taking their dinghies on a 10 mile trip up to Moon Bay and the waterfalls...a must trip for every new visitor to the area. We signed up!
July 28th. What a beautiful night at anchor. Clear sky, full moon, and nature all around. Steve had fished a bit before dinner but nothing was biting. Today was our dinghy trip to Moon Bay. Chart in hand, we headed up to the meeting area and awaited the rest of the dinghies. Such a sight! Twenty dinghies with at least two people per covered with sunscreen, wearing hats, some attired in swimming suits (me), all carrying cameras and binoculars (the better to sight bears with!). All prepared for a fun day. While we could have done the trip by ourselves, it was a more relaxed atmosphere given that we had guides. Ten miles of twisting and turning among what seemed like hundreds of islands and coves before we came to our destination...Moon Bay Falls (see pic below). We had all packed lunches which were the first thing devoured upon arrival...it was a LONG trip! Then, swimming for some while others jumped into the falls and were carried down into the pool. While I'm adventurous, I'm not particularly fond of water and Steve is not into injuring his back again so we just watched while all others cavorted in the water. Besides, it is just as much fun to watch!
It wasn't long before our guides directed us back to our boats for the long trek back. Along the way, we stopped at a small marina for ice cream. Alas, the small, family-owned ice cream stand had closed the year before and not re-opened. As to why, no-one seemed to know! So, we filled our dinghy gastanks and bought ice cream bars from the marina freezer as a consolation.
While on our trip to the Falls, we passed what seemed like hundreds of cottages much like we'd seen on the Trent-Severn portion of the Loop. But, the cottages were on islands seemingly a million miles from nowhere. Truly, they were a lot of miles from anywhere and they were on islands. Stopping at the marina answered the question, in part. People drove from wherever to the nearest mainland marina then piled their vacation necessities unto barge boats which took them to their destination. For immediate travel needs among islands, to the marina, fishing etc., the cottages all have at least one water toy whether a small runabout, a PWC, or a decent-sized cabin cruiser shallow draft enough for the skinny water. Alternatively, if the WHOLE island was owned, and usually by a significant personage (wealthy!!), one would see float planes landing and people debarking. Rumor had it that Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael Douglas owned an island near Port Rawson Bay and their presence would be known by the number of boats surrounding what was purported to be their island (guards!!) We weren't into finding their island but we were astonished as to what great lengths these Canadians go to to enjoy their short burst of warm weather. Only to find out that these same cottagers will often trek north during the winter to escape the gray gloominess of the cities. In which situation, snowmobiles are used for transportation. Mind you, there isn't electricity out on these islands either. Generators provide some measure of comfort and wood-burning stoves and fireplaces provide warmth but can you imagine?
There are miles upon miles of similar waters to be investigated but...another day! It's back to our little corner to savor the beauty we had experienced this day. Oh, and cocktail hour again with the flotilla as they would be departing in the morning.
July 29th. As mentioned earlier, there are many embayments around suitable for anchoring. The locals know all the spots and one in particular came to visit us. Ben, along with his giant brown lab (see below) came knocking!

Bens' Giant Labrador
Ben and Noreen were anchored in a neighboring embayment and Ben was out exploring. Finding us on our boat, we invite him aboard and quickly find that he is another of the friendly Canadians we will meet along the way. His large, chocolate brown labrador, lounges quietly in the dinghy while we visit. Being a warm day, and they've been out exploring for some time, the dog decides he needs a drink and a visit to the shore. So, to our surprise, he jumps out of the dinghy, laps up some water and then swims to shore to do his job! All 110 lbs of him! So, how is he to get back into the dinghy? Ben gets into the dinghy and motors over to pick up the dog...literally. Into the dinghy goes this giant dog and Ben is on his way to more exploring.
Steve spent the rest of the morning fishing then the both of us jump in the dinghy for more fishing out in the bay. Highlight of the day: Steve caught a 17" small mouth bass (see below) which promptly became our dinner. There is nothing quite so delicious as a fish straight from clean, clean waters into the frying pan! DUHLICIOUS!! While we were eating, Ben came by to introduce us to his wife, Noreen. Given that he's a Local, we spent some time picking his brain deciding where we should explore next?

Weighing Anchor!

July 30th. Spider Bay it is. Not far from Port Rawson Bay and near Henry's Fish Camp, an institution hereabouts. We weigh anchor and repeat our path back down to the small craft channel, around the tip of the peninsula and up another path to Haggis Island off Spider Bay. The locals at Penetang were right: weaving in and out of the small craft channel
and picking appropriate anchorages is giving us all of the essence of Georgian Bay without the anxiety. Still, we watch for shallow waters and mind the channel markers to avoid any and all rocks lurking just below the surface of the water.
Haggis Island is a few miles north of the small craft channel then west a mile or so. We find a few other boats at anchor but it is a large embayment with room for more (which we hope don't arrive!!). Another clear, clean body of water and warm enough to swim in, even for me! Sidney, in particular, can't seem to get enough swim time. When I take him to shore for his evening walk, all he wants to do is slide into the clear, cool waters chasing sticks I throw for him. While I'm sitting on shore, Ben and Noreen come cruising into the anchorage. They've decided to become our guides to local secrets.
Enjoying Spider Bay while Sidney swims

They invite us to follow them, in our dinghy, to Henry's Fish Camp. Henry's sits on Sans Souci Island and provides all who choose with a deep fried walleye dinner whose reputation is far and wide. On our ride down, we slither through small channels to discover more anchorages abounding with cruisers. These anchorages are "local lore" and without our guide, we never would have been privy to their location. Then, on down to Henry's where we tie up to the dinghy dock while float planes are landing disgorging their passengers. Seems the float plans come from all locations including Parry Sound, another destination a few days away.

After dinner, we load our stuffed selves back into our dinghies and motored back to our anchorage. Ben and Noreen had brought their dog with them so we brought Sidney as well. The dogs were making friends with everyone while we were enjoying our dinner. Our tablemates were from MI. Sportfishermen, they had just arrived after a full day at wide open throttle across the major portion of Lake Huron. Fishing is reputed to be some of the best in this neck of the woods although to be found in squirreled away streams off of the Bay
July 31. Another gorgeous day on the Bay. Messed around with some fishing without any luck. Ben and Noreen invited us over for brunch which was strawberry/blueberry crepes. Scrumptious. We'll be departing in the morning so it was a fond good-bye with plans to stay in touch via the internet. Friends we'll always remember. Already I'm wishing we had more time for the Georgian Bay as there are more anchorages to be checked out especially after consulting the charts with Ben. They want us to leave our boat at their marina, in a heated storage area, and return next summer so we can spend the remainder of our time in Canada instead of heading out for the rest of the Loop! Sadly, we must depart.

Fishing on Spider Bay

August 1. Summer is slipping away. We're off to Killbear and a package from home. The only way we can get our mail is via FEDX so we plan our stops then call our caretaker at home to send whatever has accumulated. Killbear Marina is a full service marina and a good thing indeed. Those cruisers hitting their props on the granite floor simply must stop for repair

So far, we have been cruising by ourselves since Colorado Cat disappeared at Trenton. Though we have run into people along the way, our schedule has never coincided with anyone. However, while cruising to Killbear, we catch up to Colonel's Lady, a boat we had first met in Atlantic City, NJ. Ron and Molly had hit one of those lurking rocks in the Trent Severn Canal and had been laid up for repairs at Bobcaygeon. After getting the strut, a wheel and a shaft repaired, they were following the "deep waters" to each planned destination. One can well imagine why!
Cruising to Killbear, we pass Parry Sound, the capital of the region. Due to time constraints, we bypass this town but it is a town replete with history. In times past, it was the land of lumber barons, Ojibway hunters, fishermen, explorers, railway magnates and British Naval officers. Home of Boston Bruins favorite, Bobby Orr, a hall of fame has been built in his honor. If needed, Parry Sound offers the cruiser everything one might need in the realm of provisioning, rest and relaxation amenities, restaurants, fuel and resorts. Killbear is at the mouth of Parry Sound where we will stay but one night.

While at Killbear, we convince Colonel's Lady to join us for the next segment of our journey, Killbear to Bad River. Consulting the charts, they are agreeable as the waters are significantly deep along our chosen path. We shared our cruising philosophy with them...deep water only!! So, on the 2nd, we motored out of Killbear Marina.

While the water was deep, the winds were our nemesis this day. What we cruisers call beam seas with 15kt winds...not comfortable at all! Sidney was buried in his favorite hiding place for rocky seas. Although it was probably a Benedryl day for him, by the time we discovered how uncomfortable cruising was going to be, it was too late to give him his sedative. Trooper that he is, he settled in for the haul and didn't complain. Colonel's Lady had left several hours before us (they cruise at a slower speed than we) but we finally caught them as we were to make our turn for Bad River. While talking to them on VHF, another of our Looper friends heard us and told us to come on in...the anchorage was great, protected from the wind, and blueberries were bountiful!

What a fun time we had at Bad River. From whence the name comes, we have no idea...it isn't a bad river at all. We'll stay here for a couple of days exploring and hopefully, finding all the bluberries we can handle.

Henry's Fish Camp on Sans Souci Island

Of all the anchorages we've encountered, Bad River rates Number 1. Surrounded by islets of pink granite and bluffs, Bad River is a maze of cuts. Once inside and at the anchorage, there is plenty of opportunity for rock climbing, blueberry picking and exploring by dinghy. No cottages. Serenity and camping at its best. With at least 10 other boats, we were ready to spend a month, as several boats here already have, but our time would be limited to two days.

For history buffs, this is exactly the spot where Champlain first laid eyes on the Great Lakes in 1615. And for you nature lovers, the area is rife with the "endangered" Massasauga rattlesnake of which Sidney and I were within ear range of. We heard the rattle and headed in the opposite direction!

After dropping our anchor and getting the dinghy down, it was time to explore all the creeks and streams coming into the river. But first, Sidney had to have his walk. So off I went to the closest spot just off the stern of the boat near a waterfall. After climbing up a rock wall, the first thing I encountered was an unmolested patch of blueberries. A bonanza. I told Sidney to go do his thing then proceeded to spend the next hour picking blueberries! Having filled the small plastic bags I had with me (usually used to pick up Sid's droppings), I scurried down to the dinghy and motored back to the boat with my treasure and proudly pronounced to Steve we had fresh blueberries for waffles. Pity the poor bears whose meals I had made off with! Knowing there would be more to find, we took off again for more exploring.

Steve's small mouth bass at Port Rawson Bay

Scott and Mary, from Mascot, saw us heading off and decided to be our guides since they'd already figured out the manner of cruising around the area. This trip turned into a most fun time. On the back side of one of the islets, there were some rapids we had to run. Scott and Mary showed us the way and off we went like a bunch of little kids screaming and hooting the entire time. While not big rapids, they were rather long but with the dinghy motor at full tilt, we shot the rapids in good measure with enough guts to plan another run. Such fun!! But wait, there is more to come. Ron and Molly from Colonel's Lady were following and they had to shoot the same rapids. We watched and waited as they tried to climb the falls. Finally, they made it! They have a smaller horsepower engine and almost didn't make it! Needless to say, we were all holding our breath.

Claire and Steve at Moon Bay Falls
Afer stopping for a moment to catch our collective breaths, we followed Scott and Mary to the junction of the stream and proceeded upstream to the next falls. This one was a little more pronounced so we weren't sure we really wanted to shoot it. Scott and Mary took off and came around the bend down another set of falls laughing and shouting the entire time. Along with Ron and Molly, we decided to savor the memory of Scott and Mary "doing it" and headed back to our boats. Our last stretch before rejoining Bad River included another set of rapids we had to shoot. It was a steep one but short. All three dinghies lined up in order and off we went. Success. We had shot Devil's Door Rapids. Deciding that was enough excitement for one day, we headed back to the boat for dinner.

August 2nd. Weather is predicted to change so we're going to pack in as much fun today as we can before heading off to Killarney tomorrow. The boys went fishing in the morning with no take home pay! The fish stories were plentiful including the "big one that got away"! Blueberries were more predictable so all four of us took off after lunch in search of another big patch. Success! We picked about three gallons of berries before tiring of the pleasure and headed back to the boat. While we were picking, Mother Nature decided to change her tune with the winds noticeably higher. Colonel's Lady looked as though she was dragging anchor so they had to find a place to reset. That done, they came over to our boat for dinner and some fresh blueberry cobbler. Tomorrow, we leave for Killarney. Sad as it is, we're nearly finished with the Georgian Bay.

Kids enjoying summertime in Killarney
August 4th. We're off to Killarney, the next to last stop before the Georgian Bay is considered to be finished. We're going to pass through Killarney and stay at an anchorage just across Killarney Bay, Covered Portage Cove. This is another pristine and shockingly beautiful spot. Completely sheltered from the weather, there are sharp rocks walls to the south of the anchorage and small sandy beaches for walking and exploring. Its popularity is defined by the number of cruisers scurrying in to secure a spot to anchor.

The Red Schoolbus Fish Restaurant in Killarney

After dropping anchor, as usual, Sidney gets his walk but this time, we take the dinghy back to Killarney to touch base with Colonel's Lady regarding tomorrow's sailing plan. They will head to Little Current while we go up Baie Fine (pronounced Bay Fin) for a couple of nights at anchor. Off to town we go.

Killarney seems to be at the end of the world. And, it nearly is. Until 1962, this area was accessible only by boat. Still, it is pristine, unspoiled by the world, yet a convenient location for those cruising the North Channel and Georgian Bay. First settled in 1820, Killarney is still water-focused with plenty of amenities for short stays by cruisers. Fishing charters are available as are the usual resort amenities like pools and lodges, museums, craft shops and the requisite ice cream store. We spend the afternoon walking around the area checking out the lighthouse, the stores and the schoolbus selling fish sandwiches. Run by Herbert Fisheries, the red schoolbus is a fixture in Killarney with people driving for miles to enjoy its flavorful offerings.

55' Fleming Motor Yacht

Just so you know, this boat is the boat of our dreams!! Way, way out of our price range but isn't she a beauty?

Entrance to Killarney Channel from the West

We spend the rest of the day fishing. Surprise, I caught a 12" small mouth bass today...which we promptly ate for dinner! Tomorrow we'll head to Baie Fine for a couple of nights and then to Little Current.

At anchor in Baie Fine

August 5. We set off for Baie Fine in a light south/southeasterly wind. Joining up with Colonel's Lady, we take the outer channel down Killarney Bay, around Badgeley, Center and Partridge Islands on our way to Frazer Bay and the entrance to Baie Fin. We wave good-bye to Colonel's Lady as they turn to Little Current. We enter Baie Fine and are greeted by the same outstanding sights that have drawn cruisers here for generations: clear protected waters and stunning quartz mountains. The destination: the Pool at the very end of the bay. As close to a fjord as anything you'll find in Canada. Along the way, there are many anchorages to choose from but as I mentioned, it is the Pool at the most eastern end of the bay that first-time cruisers head for. We chose a spot to anchor about 1/2 mile from the Pool as there were several cruisers already at anchor including five of our Looper group. Since the end of the bay is quite narrow, we did a stern-to anchor with a line tied to a tree to keep us from swinging out into the channel. First things first: Sidney goes to shore.

At the entrance to the Pool is a cottage sitting on a point of land. This is owned by Frances Langford, former USO singer and Hollywood star and widow of Ralph Evinrude. Occasionally in residence, she comes in on Chanticleer, a 110 foot yacht. Given the narrow and tortuous route to get into the Pool, it is truly amazing that a yacht of that size can even get close let alone tie up to the dock at the cottage!

Lighthouse marking the eastern entrance to Killarney Channel
There are several trails up into the hills from the Pool leading to small lakes. We missed going to Topaz Lake which supposedly offered the best views but did hike to Artist's Lake and beyond. And here is where we saw our first bear. Walking back to the dinghy with Sidney roaming in front of us, Steve saw what looked like a very large dog so he called Sidney back to him. On second thought, he said it might be a bear! What, with so many people about? But, lo and behold, as we walked closer to the Pool, we looked up the hill and there, on a ledge, sat about a two year old black bear. He was just curious, sitting there looking at us. Apparently, it is not uncommon to see black bear frequently. Guess we won't be back to explore the area any further!
We spent the rest of the day fishing from the dinghy. I had been teasing Steve about the amount of time he had been spending fishing so we were out for about four hours this day catching numerous small fish but nothing to keep. Long about the time we were going to quit, Steve caught his line on a "snag", or so we thought. But, he said, I think I have a fish on the line...a BIG one. What do I know, I'm not a fisherperson! So, he maneuvered the dinghy around all the while trying to bring in his line. His patience certainly paid off. He brought in a 24" Northern!! We were both so excited to be having some fantastic fresh fish for dinner. Finally....
And, we've been without cell signal for four days so we can't call anyone to brag about his catch!

At anchor in Bad River
August 6. We leave for Little Current. Not that we want to but Little Current is our final stop in the Georgian Bay along with quite a few other cruisers and dockage is at a minimum. Colonel's Lady has secured us a slip but we need to get there early as squatter's rights prevail.
Little Current sits on the northeast tip of Manitoulin Island, at the narrowest point of the North Channel. Technically, we left Georgian Bay at Killarney but we consider cruising into Little Current as our exit of the Georgian Bay and the beginning of the North Channel. It is a very narrow channel and a logical stopping point before heading into the North Channel especially if you are planning on anchoring out in the Benjamin Islands and/or cruising the northern coast of the North Channel.
Situated in the natural passage between Manitoulin Island to the south and Goat Island to the north, Little Current had an Indian name which meant "where the waters flow back and forth". Clearly, this is the case as the waters are turbulent coming in along with a swift current when passing under the swing bridge which only opens on the hour. Waiting for the bridge to open is a chore as waters outside of the channel are shallow. Normally, there are anywhere from five to ten boats waiting for the bridge opening making the passage even more turbulent due to wakes from boats in front of you. And, then, like waiting for Super Bowl tickets, all the boats swarm to the marinas to get a slip. Actually pretty funny but considering there is limited dockage, it is simply a matter of whoever gets there first, regardless of reservations. Ron and Molly were standing on our finger pier thwarting off anyone who tried to take our assigned slip. We laughed when we found out what they had done to secure our slip. Friends one can count on, for sure.

Running the Rapids, Bad River

Little Current appears to be just another small town. Basically a marine/water town, all the facilities one needs are situated right along the waterfront or within a short walk. Many of the Loopers are here resting before heading into the North Channel so we gather to compare notes and share experiences. Some are going into the Benjamin Islands for a few days exploration then up to the towns along the northern shore while others are headed to Drummond Island and the U.S. via the southern shore of the Channel. We are among the latter as time is drawing short considering the miles we have to make before the drop-dead date to head into the Illinois River.

Exploring Bad River

We spend time cleaning the boat after being at anchor for many days, walk around the town, take in a Farmer's Market being held in the city recreation center, buy some groceries, and try to catch up on phone calls and emails. Phone calls are made by trekking up the hill to the highest point one can reach then pointing in the direction of the closest cell. If you're lucky, you'll get one or two bars with which to make a call. Getting an internet connection is impossible. For sure, we are a million miles from anywhere but we are loving every minute of our time here.

August 8th. Sadly, it is time to head out for the North Channel. We passed by so much in the Georgian Bay and now we are going to bypass some of the beauty of the North Channel in the interest of time and Mother Nature. There is a Cruiser's Net every morning at 9 a.m. and this mornings' weather forecast does not bode well for the next week. Even today is not a good day but the full brunt of the weather doesn't hit us until we exit the protection of the Benjamin Islands. Rough would be an understatement. Sidney could not find a comfortable spot and ended up getting sick. First time that has happened in forever! Finally, our motor boat turned into a sailboat as we started tacking to deal with the wind and waves. After what seemed like forever, we turned into Gore Bay. Due to the wind direction blowing into the Bay, we opted for the marina and tied up to a slip.

Devil's Door Rapids, Bad River

Colonel's Lady at anchor, Bad River

Gore Bay, North Channel

Doesn't look all that lumpy, does it? Well, it was. And, here we are at our first destination in the North Channel. Which means I've finished a short summary version of our trip through the Georgian Bay. Cruising was anticlimatic given all the stories we had heard. Primarily, our prayers to our Travel Angels provided safe passage but it was with the assistance of all the "locals" we talked with. Weather was exceptional, winds were fair, fishing was good, friendships were made. And now we know why people cruise the Georgian Bay every year and why there are so MANY Canadians owning boats.

The Georgian Bay offers some of the most pristine and spectacular cruising we have experienced in our 5 years on the water. With hundreds of miles available for exploration, it would take a lifetime to touch most of it. The waters are clear, the fish are still plentiful while hard to find, the locals are friendly and sharing, and all can be had by just being there. We will, God willing, be back.