Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Drummond Island to Mackinaw Island

Drummond Island to St. Ignace and Mackinaw Island
High Speed Ferry to Mackinaw Island

August 11th. Time to get moving on. We left Drummond Island amid clear sunny skies but with a forecast of stormy seas within the next 24 hours, we drop our plans to stop at DeTour and go directly to St. Ignace, on the northwest corner of MI but still in Lake Huron. The weather gods are with us and we have the most beautiful day of cruising.


Sea Buoy marking our turn to St. Ignace


Leaving the North Channel behind us, we set course to take us past Mackinaw Island. South of the Straits of Mackinac, St. Ignace is a small town on the western side of the Mackinaw Bridge. From here, ferries take crowds of people (tourists) to Mackinaw Island about every 1 hour. Father James Marquette established a mission in St. Ignace in 1671 and a tombstone marks his grave overlooking the water with a park commemorating his great works.



St. Ignace Lighthouse marking entrance to harbor


About six miles from Mackinaw Island, we begin feeling the effects of the many high-speed ferries moving back and forth either from St. Ignace or Mackinaw City to Mackinaw Island. After cruising on flat waters, we are met with the rock and roll created by the many crossings. We make our way into the marina, fuel and settle in for the rest of the day.



We're on our way to Mackinaw Island, bikes in tow


Given that there are miles and miles of tourist attractions on Mackinaw Island, we elect to take our bikes to cover as much ground as possible since we are only going for the day. Despite all the other area attractions, Mackinaw Island is definitely the draw. The ferry is loaded with people...and their bikes! Off we go.


Mackinaw Island is only three miles long by two wide. Approaching from any direction, the island dominates the view. The Indians are said to have held the island as a sacred place and after our tour, one can understand their devotion.


Though we had hoped to stay at the island marina, after we arrived and walked our bikes to the main thoroughfare, it was obvious that our travel angels were holding our hands, once again. There is no motorized transportation on the island; one either walks, bikes or is transported by horse-drawn carriage. Luggage and provisions are moved from the wharf by the same mode. So, guess what "odor" permeates the downtown surrounds? Dependent on the wind direction, the marina can be quite the unpleasant place to stay.



One of the many horse-drawn carriages

Once off the ferry, bikes in tow, we walked into the historic downtown waterfront village. Supposedly reminiscent of an 1800's Victorian village, there are a myriad of Victorian homes with locals, as guides, dressed in period costume. We were impressed with the number of fudge and ice cream storefronts more than with any other aspect of the town. One tourist was heard to say that there are more fudge and ice cream stores on Mackinaw Island than in the whole state of MI. We believed him.


Our first stop was at a quaint restaurant for a healthy breakfast before heading out on our bike tour.


The island was once a commercial depot for area trappers and traders before being taken over by the British during the American Revolution. There are many of the original building still standing and can be toured including Fort Mackinac, the British outpost. Re-captured by the Americans twenty years after the Revolution, the fort is today home to military reenactments, bugle and drum corps music and the requisite cannon shot.


While we did not climb the hill to tour, Mackinaw Island has a very old and still used hotel; the Grand Hotel. It is said to have the world's longest veranda. Having "boat clothes" on, we defer to our cameras to hold the memory in our minds. The Hotel hosts many a wedding, family reunion, and corporate meetings during the open months.


The Grand Hotel


We escape the "citiness" and meander up the road intent on circumventing the throngs of tourists. There is a 12 mile road which goes around the whole island and while Ron and Molly opt to go just to the Hole in the Wall, Steve and I decide to bike around the island. Everywhere, there is a profusion of colorful flowers and perfect landscaping. Certainly, a lot of passion is put into making the island not only an historic visit but a pleasant and beautiful one as well.


Our first stop is the Hole in the Wall. But, before we can see the sight, we have to climb a whole lot of stairs. Either we're getting old or we're awfully out of shape. I opt for the second choice as certainly we're not OLD but living on a boat does not support a health club!

Hole-in-the-Wall at Artist's Point


The hole is a natural limestone formation with a 30' wide hole gouged out by waves and glaciers over the ages. The requisite pictures are taken after which Steve and I set off on our circumnavigation of the island by bike. Away from the city, the island reverts back to mostly natural topography. Punctuated by a cottage from time to time, hills are covered by trees and the beach beckons to take a dip. Hot as it was, we pedaled on until we reached a road that simply went up. However, at its junction, there was an ice cream stand to cool one off.


We looked at each other and took the plunge...uphill it was! Besides, there was a cemetery somewhere up there and I love to meander through the old places and imagine the lives of those who reside therein. And beyond, the remnants of a military outpost that was said to offer stunning views of the opposing lake shore.



Western side of Mackinaw Island


And stunning it was! Ron and Molly have lived in Hawaii. Showing them this picture, I commented at how similar it was to places on Oahu and the main island. From the top of the island, looking down, the color of the water looked as azure blue as anything in the Pacific.



So, you think Steve's exhausted?


While I toured the old cemetery, Steve took a siesta. What he missed! There were graves dating back to the early 1600's including one in which was interred a Bishop of China. He was an American, I believe, of Chinese ancestry who, according to the plaque, lived in China his adult life and wished to be returned to this very island. Along with him were several family members. One wonders what the island looked like "back then".




Looking down on the Grand Hotel


We ended our tour as it had begun; in the waterfront town just down from the Grand Hotel. Since it was nearing 3 o'clock and our designated rendezvous time with Ron and Molly, we biked on by the Starbucks (yes, there is even one here on this outpost island!) and scooted on back to the ferry landing.



Some of the Victorian homes on the waterfront


Our tour complete, we head on back to St. Ignace reveling in the fact that someone else is driving the boat. It is a pleasure to just sit back and let someone else worry about all the wakes, waves and traffic, landing the boat at the dock and disgorging its passengers.


Back on our boats, we're anticipating a fresh blueberry pie for dinner; the last of our Georgian Bay pickings.

Tomorrow, it's off to Harbor Springs MI, dependent on weather. There is a front moving in so our plans to stop at Beaver Island are scrapped in lieu of reaching a more distant point in case we get weathered in. We are to discover the decision was well made.



The stinky Mackinaw Island Marina

Sidney isn't pleased with his humans

On our return to the boat, we're greeted by an unhappy dog...after all, we've left him for nearly the entire day. Heaven forbid! But, after a treat or two, a walk in the park and a hearty dinner, all is forgiven. Rest up, doggy, as tomorrow looks to be not the most comfortable day of cruising!


Leaving Drummond Island on our way to St. Ignace