Georgian Bay to North Channel

Cruising the Georgian Bay

Sarah, the picture below is for you. The Canadian Loon is displayed, in all its glory, on the bow of our neighbor boat while docked at Beacon Bay Marina in Penetanguishene Ontario. We saw just a few "live" ones in our journey while our neighbor had not only this lovely sculpture but probably about 20 in his saloon!

The Canadian Loon, Beacon Bay Marina

July 21st. Beacon Bay Marina, Penetanguishene Ontario, or Penetang to the locals, was to be our home for the next several days as Steve managed to herniate a disc (Nurse Claire diagnosing!) while helping to land a boat at Big Chute. While he lay in bed, drugged with pain killers and NSAID's, I roamed the local territory, on foot with Sidney, and on my bike. Penetang marked the beginning of the part of our Adventure that we had been having nightmares about.

The Georgian Bay. Technically part of Lake Huron, Georgian Bay is separated by a series of islands stretching from Manitoulin Island to the west (and the largest freshwater island in the world) south to Bruce Peninsula. Covering 6000 square miles and over 90,000 islands, the Bay is 120 miles long and 50 miles wide. The French explorer, Samuel de Champlain, came here in 1615 and proclaimed the bay the sweetwater sea.

The northern coast is the most widely traveled because of the many anchorages, small towns with friendly marinas and the protected nature of the small craft channel. The southern coast is not as cruiser friendly although there are several towns with marinas to tie up to. Truly, there are thousands of islands for one to explore. The Small Craft Channel not withstanding, there are hundreds of miles of water to explore either on our boat or with the dinghy into the less "cruiser-worthy" waters. Though we certainly have our trepidations, we are eager to begin the most anticipated portion of our Adventure.

Penetanguishene, our first stop, is the oldest town in Ontario and the second oldest in Canada; a military base back in the late 1700's. Soon after the beginning of the War of 1812, the British Navy selected the narrow bay for its naval base and the town grew precipitously after that. Then, French Canadians and farmers from Quebec settled in the area and Penetang became a dual-language oasis and is today the home of one of the only dual-language schools.

Penetanguishene Bay, itself, is ringed by marinas attesting to the popularity of boating during the summer months. The town is now more of a tourist destination complete with a re-creation of the military and naval base of the 1800's, rows of condos on the beach, and charter cruises on the Bay. Steve saw only the inside of his cabin because he was sentenced to bedrest until his back healed. While he recuperated, I took the opportunity to avail myself of "local knowledge".

Our neighbors, on both sides, were "locals" and had traveled many times in and through the Bay and were only too happy to share their information...true of all boaters no matter where! From them, we learned that traveling the small craft channel, except in selected areas, was not for a boat of our size. In fact, the locals thought anyone with a boat over 32' was too big to safely traverse the Bay on the small craft channel. However, with good planning, we could seesaw in and out of the small craft channel and partake of everything the Georgian Bay had to offer while enjoying the essence of the entire region. Sounded like a plan....

Float Plane at Henry's Fishcamp

July 27th. We're on our way! Steve has healed enough for us to venture out so we meandered to the fuel dock for a "top-off" as there are few opportunities to buy diesel for the next 100 miles or so. Another beautiful day, one of many we were to encounter through the rest of the month. We had charted a path to our first anchorage that would take us through safe water, across the small craft channel near Beausoleil Island, then up to Port Rawson Bay. We meandered through many islands in safely deep water until we reached a lovely large bay with several smaller embayments. Our mouths were respectfully open as we marveled at the beauty of the area: quiet and peaceful, distant from civilization, clear waters, fish jumping everywhere, fellow cruisers anchored in coves nearby. Why had we waited so long to visit this area? I had a feeling that when the time came to leave, we would be hard-pressed to head south.

Rising Moon over Port Rawson Bay

Upon entering the Bay, we first encountered a gathering of Viking sportfishermen. Apparently, there had been a rendezvous over the weekend but not all the boats had left. Seeing them gave us some comfort because if that size of boat with its draft could cruise through these waters, surely we would have no problem! Perhaps all the stories we had heard were not true?

We had chosen, as our first anchorage, the lower or northern portion of the Bay, but to our surprise, the Looper Flotilla of 25 boats, was rafted together in that same area. The Bay is large so it isn't a problem, and in retrospect, a benefit because we found another little embayment where only a few boats could venture and it is here we drop the hook. This idyllic spot (there will be so many more!) will be our home for the next three days.

So what is a Looper Flotilla? There are probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 boats doing the Loop this year. Twice during the year, in Penetang (summer) and again at Joe Wheeler in Alabama (fall), many of the boats gather together for a social reunion to share notes, listen to the "experts" who have "been there-done that", and generally touch base before heading out on the next leg of the journey. Tradition has it that a group of boats will be led by the local expert through the Georgian Bay to the North Channel hitting some of the areas' highlights. About 25 boats is all that can be comfortably guided so it was first come-first served on a reservation basis.

Sidney is ready to go exploring. He is so Pavlovian. After 5 years on the boat with us, he knows that after the anchor is set, the dinghy comes down. He's ready to go for a walk. We're ready to go exploring!

The area is full of choices: should we go visit the Flotilla? check out the other boats at anchor? go fishing? take a dinghy ride through the many streams we see? It's all too much. So, we head over to the Flotilla to check out their plans. The Flotilla was formed at the July Rendezvous in Penetang. Headed by a local couple, this group of boaters had paid to be lead through the Georgian Bay to the beginning of the North Channel. While we are not shy of large groups, we wanted our own itinerary with the freedom to stop and go as we pleased but many of the "loopers" we had previously met were there and we ended up staying for cocktail hour. The next day, they were taking their dinghies on a 10 mile trip up to Moon Bay and the waterfalls...a must trip for every new visitor to the area. We signed up!

July 28th. What a beautiful night at anchor. Clear sky, full moon, and nature all around. Steve had fished a bit before dinner but nothing was biting. Today was our dinghy trip to Moon Bay. Chart in hand, we headed up to the meeting area and awaited the rest of the dinghies. Such a sight! Twenty dinghies with at least two people per covered with sunscreen, wearing hats, some attired in swimming suits (me), all carrying cameras and binoculars (the better to sight bears with!). All prepared for a fun day. While we could have done the trip by ourselves, it was a more relaxed atmosphere given that we had guides. Ten miles of twisting and turning among what seemed like hundreds of islands and coves before we came to our destination...Moon Bay Falls (see pic below). We had all packed lunches which were the first thing devoured upon arrival...it was a LONG trip! Then, swimming for some while others jumped into the falls and were carried down into the pool. While I'm adventurous, I'm not particularly fond of water and Steve is not into injuring his back again so we just watched while all others cavorted in the water. Besides, it is just as much fun to watch!

It wasn't long before our guides directed us back to our boats for the long trek back. Along the way, we stopped at a small marina for ice cream. Alas, the small, family-owned ice cream stand had closed the year before and not re-opened. As to why, no-one seemed to know! So, we filled our dinghy gastanks and bought ice cream bars from the marina freezer as a consolation.

While on our trip to the Falls, we passed what seemed like hundreds of cottages much like we'd seen on the Trent-Severn portion of the Loop. But, the cottages were on islands seemingly a million miles from nowhere. Truly, they were a lot of miles from anywhere and they were on islands. Stopping at the marina answered the question, in part. People drove from wherever to the nearest mainland marina then piled their vacation necessities unto barge boats which took them to their destination. For immediate travel needs among islands, to the marina, fishing etc., the cottages all have at least one water toy whether a small runabout, a PWC, or a decent-sized cabin cruiser shallow draft enough for the skinny water. Alternatively, if the WHOLE island was owned, and usually by a significant personage (wealthy!!), one would see float planes landing and people debarking. Rumor had it that Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael Douglas owned an island near Port Rawson Bay and their presence would be known by the number of boats surrounding what was purported to be their island (guards!!) We weren't into finding their island but we were astonished as to what great lengths these Canadians go to to enjoy their short burst of warm weather. Only to find out that these same cottagers will often trek north during the winter to escape the gray gloominess of the cities. In which situation, snowmobiles are used for transportation. Mind you, there isn't electricity out on these islands either. Generators provide some measure of comfort and wood-burning stoves and fireplaces provide warmth but can you imagine?

There are miles upon miles of similar waters to be investigated but...another day! It's back to our little corner to savor the beauty we had experienced this day. Oh, and cocktail hour again with the flotilla as they would be departing in the morning.

July 29th. As mentioned earlier, there are many embayments around suitable for anchoring. The locals know all the spots and one in particular came to visit us. Ben, along with his giant brown lab (see below) came knocking!

Bens' Giant Labrador

Ben and Noreen were anchored in a neighboring embayment and Ben was out exploring. Finding us on our boat, we invite him aboard and quickly find that he is another of the friendly Canadians we will meet along the way. His large, chocolate brown labrador, lounges quietly in the dinghy while we visit. Being a warm day, and they've been out exploring for some time, the dog decides he needs a drink and a visit to the shore. So, to our surprise, he jumps out of the dinghy, laps up some water and then swims to shore to do his job! All 110 lbs of him! So, how is he to get back into the dinghy? Ben gets into the dinghy and motors over to pick up the dog...literally. Into the dinghy goes this giant dog and Ben is on his way to more exploring.

Steve spent the rest of the morning fishing then the both of us jump in the dinghy for more fishing out in the bay. Highlight of the day: Steve caught a 17" small mouth bass (see below) which promptly became our dinner. There is nothing quite so delicious as a fish straight from clean, clean waters into the frying pan! DUHLICIOUS!! While we were eating, Ben came by to introduce us to his wife, Noreen. Given that he's a Local, we spent some time picking his brain deciding where we should explore next?

Weighing Anchor!

July 30th. Spider Bay it is. Not far from Port Rawson Bay and near Henry's Fish Camp, an institution hereabouts. We weigh anchor and repeat our path back down to the small craft channel, around the tip of the peninsula and up another path to Haggis Island off Spider Bay. The locals at Penetang were right: weaving in and out of the small craft channel

and picking appropriate anchorages is giving us all of the essence of Georgian Bay without the anxiety. Still, we watch for shallow waters and mind the channel markers to avoid any and all rocks lurking just below the surface of the water.

Haggis Island is a few miles north of the small craft channel then west a mile or so. We find a few other boats at anchor but it is a large embayment with room for more (which we hope don't arrive!!). Another clear, clean body of water and warm enough to swim in, even for me! Sidney, in particular, can't seem to get enough swim time. When I take him to shore for his evening walk, all he wants to do is slide into the clear, cool waters chasing sticks I throw for him. While I'm sitting on shore, Ben and Noreen come cruising into the anchorage. They've decided to become our guides to local secrets.

Enjoying Spider Bay while Sidney swims

They invite us to follow them, in our dinghy, to Henry's Fish Camp. Henry's sits on Sans Souci Island and provides all who choose with a deep fried walleye dinner whose reputation is far and wide. On our ride down, we slither through small channels to discover more anchorages abounding with cruisers. These anchorages are "local lore" and without our guide, we never would have been privy to their location. Then, on down to Henry's where we tie up to the dinghy dock while float planes are landing disgorging their passengers. Seems the float plans come from all locations including Parry Sound, another destination a few days away.

After dinner, we load our stuffed selves back into our dinghies and motored back to our anchorage. Ben and Noreen had brought their dog with them so we brought Sidney as well. The dogs were making friends with everyone while we were enjoying our dinner. Our tablemates were from MI. Sportfishermen, they had just arrived after a full day at wide open throttle across the major portion of Lake Huron. Fishing is reputed to be some of the best in this neck of the woods although to be found in squirreled away streams off of the Bay

July 31. Another gorgeous day on the Bay. Messed around with some fishing without any luck. Ben and Noreen invited us over for brunch which was strawberry/blueberry crepes. Scrumptious. We'll be departing in the morning so it was a fond good-bye with plans to stay in touch via the internet. Friends we'll always remember. Already I'm wishing we had more time for the Georgian Bay as there are more anchorages to be checked out especially after consulting the charts with Ben. They want us to leave our boat at their marina, in a heated storage area, and return next summer so we can spend the remainder of our time in Canada instead of heading out for the rest of the Loop! Sadly, we must depart.

Fishing on Spider Bay

August 1. Summer is slipping away. We're off to Killbear and a package from home. The only way we can get our mail is via FEDX so we plan our stops then call our caretaker at home to send whatever has accumulated. Killbear Marina is a full service marina and a good thing indeed. Those cruisers hitting their props on the granite floor simply must stop for repair

So far, we have been cruising by ourselves since Colorado Cat disappeared at Trenton. Though we have run into people along the way, our schedule has never coincided with anyone. However, while cruising to Killbear, we catch up to Colonel's Lady, a boat we had first met in Atlantic City, NJ. Ron and Molly had hit one of those lurking rocks in the Trent Severn Canal and had been laid up for repairs at Bobcaygeon. After getting the strut, a wheel and a shaft repaired, they were following the "deep waters" to each planned destination. One can well imagine why!

Cruising to Killbear, we pass Parry Sound, the capital of the region. Due to time constraints, we bypass this town but it is a town replete with history. In times past, it was the land of lumber barons, Ojibway hunters, fishermen, explorers, railway magnates and British Naval officers. Home of Boston Bruins favorite, Bobby Orr, a hall of fame has been built in his honor. If needed, Parry Sound offers the cruiser everything one might need in the realm of provisioning, rest and relaxation amenities, restaurants, fuel and resorts. Killbear is at the mouth of Parry Sound where we will stay but one night.

While at Killbear, we convince Colonel's Lady to join us for the next segment of our journey, Killbear to Bad River. Consulting the charts, they are agreeable as the waters are significantly deep along our chosen path. We shared our cruising philosophy with them...deep water only!! So, on the 2nd, we motored out of Killbear Marina.

While the water was deep, the winds were our nemesis this day. What we cruisers call beam seas with 15kt winds...not comfortable at all! Sidney was buried in his favorite hiding place for rocky seas. Although it was probably a Benedryl day for him, by the time we discovered how uncomfortable cruising was going to be, it was too late to give him his sedative. Trooper that he is, he settled in for the haul and didn't complain. Colonel's Lady had left several hours before us (they cruise at a slower speed than we) but we finally caught them as we were to make our turn for Bad River. While talking to them on VHF, another of our Looper friends heard us and told us to come on in...the anchorage was great, protected from the wind, and blueberries were bountiful!

What a fun time we had at Bad River. From whence the name comes, we have no idea...it isn't a bad river at all. We'll stay here for a couple of days exploring and hopefully, finding all the bluberries we can handle.

Henry's Fish Camp on Sans Souci Island

Of all the anchorages we've encountered, Bad River rates Number 1. Surrounded by islets of pink granite and bluffs, Bad River is a maze of cuts. Once inside and at the anchorage, there is plenty of opportunity for rock climbing, blueberry picking and exploring by dinghy. No cottages. Serenity and camping at its best. With at least 10 other boats, we were ready to spend a month, as several boats here already have, but our time would be limited to two days.

For history buffs, this is exactly the spot where Champlain first laid eyes on the Great Lakes in 1615. And for you nature lovers, the area is rife with the "endangered" Massasauga rattlesnake of which Sidney and I were within ear range of. We heard the rattle and headed in the opposite direction!

After dropping our anchor and getting the dinghy down, it was time to explore all the creeks and streams coming into the river. But first, Sidney had to have his walk. So off I went to the closest spot just off the stern of the boat near a waterfall. After climbing up a rock wall, the first thing I encountered was an unmolested patch of blueberries. A bonanza. I told Sidney to go do his thing then proceeded to spend the next hour picking blueberries! Having filled the small plastic bags I had with me (usually used to pick up Sid's droppings), I scurried down to the dinghy and motored back to the boat with my treasure and proudly pronounced to Steve we had fresh blueberries for waffles. Pity the poor bears whose meals I had made off with! Knowing there would be more to find, we took off again for more exploring.

Steve's small mouth bass at Port Rawson Bay

Scott and Mary, from Mascot, saw us heading off and decided to be our guides since they'd already figured out the manner of cruising around the area. This trip turned into a most fun time. On the back side of one of the islets, there were some rapids we had to run. Scott and Mary showed us the way and off we went like a bunch of little kids screaming and hooting the entire time. While not big rapids, they were rather long but with the dinghy motor at full tilt, we shot the rapids in good measure with enough guts to plan another run. Such fun!! But wait, there is more to come. Ron and Molly from Colonel's Lady were following and they had to shoot the same rapids. We watched and waited as they tried to climb the falls. Finally, they made it! They have a smaller horsepower engine and almost didn't make it! Needless to say, we were all holding our breath.

Claire and Steve at Moon Bay Falls

Afer stopping for a moment to catch our collective breaths, we followed Scott and Mary to the junction of the stream and proceeded upstream to the next falls. This one was a little more pronounced so we weren't sure we really wanted to shoot it. Scott and Mary took off and came around the bend down another set of falls laughing and shouting the entire time. Along with Ron and Molly, we decided to savor the memory of Scott and Mary "doing it" and headed back to our boats. Our last stretch before rejoining Bad River included another set of rapids we had to shoot. It was a steep one but short. All three dinghies lined up in order and off we went. Success. We had shot Devil's Door Rapids. Deciding that was enough excitement for one day, we headed back to the boat for dinner.

August 2nd. Weather is predicted to change so we're going to pack in as much fun today as we can before heading off to Killarney tomorrow. The boys went fishing in the morning with no take home pay! The fish stories were plentiful including the "big one that got away"! Blueberries were more predictable so all four of us took off after lunch in search of another big patch. Success! We picked about three gallons of berries before tiring of the pleasure and headed back to the boat. While we were picking, Mother Nature decided to change her tune with the winds noticeably higher. Colonel's Lady looked as though she was dragging anchor so they had to find a place to reset. That done, they came over to our boat for dinner and some fresh blueberry cobbler. Tomorrow, we leave for Killarney. Sad as it is, we're nearly finished with the Georgian Bay.

Kids enjoying summertime in Killarney

August 4th. We're off to Killarney, the next to last stop before the Georgian Bay is considered to be finished. We're going to pass through Killarney and stay at an anchorage just across Killarney Bay, Covered Portage Cove. This is another pristine and shockingly beautiful spot. Completely sheltered from the weather, there are sharp rocks walls to the south of the anchorage and small sandy beaches for walking and exploring. Its popularity is defined by the number of cruisers scurrying in to secure a spot to anchor.

The Red Schoolbus Fish Restaurant in Killarney

After dropping anchor, as usual, Sidney gets his walk but this time, we take the dinghy back to Killarney to touch base with Colonel's Lady regarding tomorrow's sailing plan. They will head to Little Current while we go up Baie Fine (pronounced Bay Fin) for a couple of nights at anchor. Off to town we go.

Killarney seems to be at the end of the world. And, it nearly is. Until 1962, this area was accessible only by boat. Still, it is pristine, unspoiled by the world, yet a convenient location for those cruising the North Channel and Georgian Bay. First settled in 1820, Killarney is still water-focused with plenty of amenities for short stays by cruisers. Fishing charters are available as are the usual resort amenities like pools and lodges, museums, craft shops and the requisite ice cream store. We spend the afternoon walking around the area checking out the lighthouse, the stores and the schoolbus selling fish sandwiches. Run by Herbert Fisheries, the red schoolbus is a fixture in Killarney with people driving for miles to enjoy its flavorful offerings.

55' Fleming Motor Yacht

Just so you know, this boat is the boat of our dreams!! Way, way out of our price range but isn't she a beauty?

Entrance to Killarney Channel from the West

We spend the rest of the day fishing. Surprise, I caught a 12" small mouth bass today...which we promptly ate for dinner! Tomorrow we'll head to Baie Fine for a couple of nights and then to Little Current.

At anchor in Baie Fine

August 5. We set off for Baie Fine in a light south/southeasterly wind. Joining up with Colonel's Lady, we take the outer channel down Killarney Bay, around Badgeley, Center and Partridge Islands on our way to Frazer Bay and the entrance to Baie Fin. We wave good-bye to Colonel's Lady as they turn to Little Current. We enter Baie Fine and are greeted by the same outstanding sights that have drawn cruisers here for generations: clear protected waters and stunning quartz mountains. The destination: the Pool at the very end of the bay. As close to a fjord as anything you'll find in Canada. Along the way, there are many anchorages to choose from but as I mentioned, it is the Pool at the most eastern end of the bay that first-time cruisers head for. We chose a spot to anchor about 1/2 mile from the Pool as there were several cruisers already at anchor including five of our Looper group. Since the end of the bay is quite narrow, we did a stern-to anchor with a line tied to a tree to keep us from swinging out into the channel. First things first: Sidney goes to shore.

At the entrance to the Pool is a cottage sitting on a point of land. This is owned by Frances Langford, former USO singer and Hollywood star and widow of Ralph Evinrude. Occasionally in residence, she comes in on Chanticleer, a 110 foot yacht. Given the narrow and tortuous route to get into the Pool, it is truly amazing that a yacht of that size can even get close let alone tie up to the dock at the cottage!

Lighthouse marking the eastern entrance to Killarney Channel

There are several trails up into the hills from the Pool leading to small lakes. We missed going to Topaz Lake which supposedly offered the best views but did hike to Artist's Lake and beyond. And here is where we saw our first bear. Walking back to the dinghy with Sidney roaming in front of us, Steve saw what looked like a very large dog so he called Sidney back to him. On second thought, he said it might be a bear! What, with so many people about? But, lo and behold, as we walked closer to the Pool, we looked up the hill and there, on a ledge, sat about a two year old black bear. He was just curious, sitting there looking at us. Apparently, it is not uncommon to see black bear frequently. Guess we won't be back to explore the area any further!

We spent the rest of the day fishing from the dinghy. I had been teasing Steve about the amount of time he had been spending fishing so we were out for about four hours this day catching numerous small fish but nothing to keep. Long about the time we were going to quit, Steve caught his line on a "snag", or so we thought. But, he said, I think I have a fish on the line...a BIG one. What do I know, I'm not a fisherperson! So, he maneuvered the dinghy around all the while trying to bring in his line. His patience certainly paid off. He brought in a 24" Northern!! We were both so excited to be having some fantastic fresh fish for dinner. Finally....

And, we've been without cell signal for four days so we can't call anyone to brag about his catch!

At anchor in Bad River

August 6. We leave for Little Current. Not that we want to but Little Current is our final stop in the Georgian Bay along with quite a few other cruisers and dockage is at a minimum. Colonel's Lady has secured us a slip but we need to get there early as squatter's rights prevail.

Little Current sits on the northeast tip of Manitoulin Island, at the narrowest point of the North Channel. Technically, we left Georgian Bay at Killarney but we consider cruising into Little Current as our exit of the Georgian Bay and the beginning of the North Channel. It is a very narrow channel and a logical stopping point before heading into the North Channel especially if you are planning on anchoring out in the Benjamin Islands and/or cruising the northern coast of the North Channel.

Situated in the natural passage between Manitoulin Island to the south and Goat Island to the north, Little Current had an Indian name which meant "where the waters flow back and forth". Clearly, this is the case as the waters are turbulent coming in along with a swift current when passing under the swing bridge which only opens on the hour. Waiting for the bridge to open is a chore as waters outside of the channel are shallow. Normally, there are anywhere from five to ten boats waiting for the bridge opening making the passage even more turbulent due to wakes from boats in front of you. And, then, like waiting for Super Bowl tickets, all the boats swarm to the marinas to get a slip. Actually pretty funny but considering there is limited dockage, it is simply a matter of whoever gets there first, regardless of reservations. Ron and Molly were standing on our finger pier thwarting off anyone who tried to take our assigned slip. We laughed when we found out what they had done to secure our slip. Friends one can count on, for sure.

Running the Rapids, Bad River

Little Current appears to be just another small town. Basically a marine/water town, all the facilities one needs are situated right along the waterfront or within a short walk. Many of the Loopers are here resting before heading into the North Channel so we gather to compare notes and share experiences. Some are going into the Benjamin Islands for a few days exploration then up to the towns along the northern shore while others are headed to Drummond Island and the U.S. via the southern shore of the Channel. We are among the latter as time is drawing short considering the miles we have to make before the drop-dead date to head into the Illinois River.

Exploring Bad River

We spend time cleaning the boat after being at anchor for many days, walk around the town, take in a Farmer's Market being held in the city recreation center, buy some groceries, and try to catch up on phone calls and emails. Phone calls are made by trekking up the hill to the highest point one can reach then pointing in the direction of the closest cell. If you're lucky, you'll get one or two bars with which to make a call. Getting an internet connection is impossible. For sure, we are a million miles from anywhere but we are loving every minute of our time here.

August 8th. Sadly, it is time to head out for the North Channel. We passed by so much in the Georgian Bay and now we are going to bypass some of the beauty of the North Channel in the interest of time and Mother Nature. There is a Cruiser's Net every morning at 9 a.m. and this mornings' weather forecast does not bode well for the next week. Even today is not a good day but the full brunt of the weather doesn't hit us until we exit the protection of the Benjamin Islands. Rough would be an understatement. Sidney could not find a comfortable spot and ended up getting sick. First time that has happened in forever! Finally, our motor boat turned into a sailboat as we started tacking to deal with the wind and waves. After what seemed like forever, we turned into Gore Bay. Due to the wind direction blowing into the Bay, we opted for the marina and tied up to a slip.

Devil's Door Rapids, Bad River

Colonel's Lady at anchor, Bad River

Gore Bay, North Channel

Doesn't look all that lumpy, does it? Well, it was. And, here we are at our first destination in the North Channel. Which means I've finished a short summary version of our trip through the Georgian Bay. Cruising was anticlimatic given all the stories we had heard. Primarily, our prayers to our Travel Angels provided safe passage but it was with the assistance of all the "locals" we talked with. Weather was exceptional, winds were fair, fishing was good, friendships were made. And now we know why people cruise the Georgian Bay every year and why there are so MANY Canadians owning boats.

The Georgian Bay offers some of the most pristine and spectacular cruising we have experienced in our 5 years on the water. With hundreds of miles available for exploration, it would take a lifetime to touch most of it. The waters are clear, the fish are still plentiful while hard to find, the locals are friendly and sharing, and all can be had by just being there. We will, God willing, be back.

The Trent Severn Canal

Claire and Marg Valcour at Fraser Park Marina

The Trent-Severn Portion of our Great Adventure

The Trent Severn Canal, built over a period of 87 years, connects Lake Ontario with the Georgian Ban, the northern part of Lake Huron. It consisted of connecting many lovely lakes via man-dug canals primarily for the purpose of commerce. By the time it was finished, multi-laned highways and raiways had reduced the need for the system and it is now used primarily for recreational purposes.

Travel on the Trent Severn is highlighted by the numerous locks that raise you nearly 600 feet from Trenton Ontario to the summit of the system near Balsam Lake and then lowers you 267 feet to the Georgian Bay. In total, we traveled 240 miles on the Trent Severn to Penetanguishine Ontario in the Georgian Bay. And what a trip it was!

The Locks totaled 44 although the last lock is numbered 45. There are three types of locks, conventional, flight and hydraulic, and one marine railway which I will describe in detail when we arrive. Many of the locks have been operating since the late 1900's with little modification; in fact, Parks Canada works diligently to preserve the locks in as nearly the original condition as possible. Repair, restoration and maintenance is on-going but there is little mechanization. Nearly all the lock gates are operated manually by the locktender and his(her) assistants trudging around in a circle pushing the lever that eventually opens the lock gates.

There were three locks that served to highlight our trip: the Peterborough Lift Lock, the Kirkfield Lift Lock and the Marine Railway or Big Chute as it is known by the locals. Peterborough and Kirkfield celebrated their 100th anniversaries in 2004. The Big Chute is not a lock at all but a 3-story marine carriage that portages your boat over land! 600' from one side to the other.

So, with that preliminary information, here is our story of the Trent Severn Canal.

Steve's first catch...a walleye 19" long

June 29th. We're about to begin the Trent-Severn portion of our trip. Leaving Oswego NY in our wake, we headed for Bath Ontario to arrive one day before their biggest holiday on July 1st. We'd attempted reservations at Kingston Ontario but with their Big Holiday upon us, we had to change course and travel a bit west of Kingston to Bath Ontario in the Bay of Quinte.

Bath is a small town used to having smaller boats in their harbor but, as we were to discover throughout our Canadian travels, the harbormaster was not about to turn us away. Another boat, Wavaway, joined us...a 55" Hatteras...and they put us on the T-docks...barely! The holiday came and went but since we weren't in the big city, we missed the most raucous of the celebrations.

While Bath is a small town, it served to introduce us to one of the greater pleasures of cruising in Canadian waters: clear, clean water that you could see nearly 15' feet down.

July 1st we departed for an anchorage not far from Bath in the Bay of Quinte, known for some of the most excellent cruising in Canada. We dropped anchor near Ram Island so Steve could fish. A few perch and undersized large mouth bass later, we moved to a nearby bay and set the hook for the nite...quiet and far from the maddening crowd. Steve took his fishing pole, with a spinner rig, and cast it into the water off the stern of the boat and voila! on the second cast...Claire, I've got a fish...come and get the net! Well, he reeled it in and we had a 19.5" walleye. We record every fish we catch (and keep) with a picture and a measuring stick as, for sure, people will not believe us...or Steve, to be more accurate. Let me tell you, we had a great dinner that nite!, the best we've had so far.

July 2nd, we ventured a little further up the Bay of Quinte into Mohawk Bay. We tried one anchorage but the wind shifted so we moved a bit further on. One thing is for sure...you have to be sure your anchor is set as the bottom is extremely weedy. We had another day to wait for our slip in Trenton so we used that time to fish...or Steve used the time to fish. He caught a large-mouth bass that took him 10" to land but since he doesn't like to eat large-mouth, he returned it to the water. Come to find out, locals thought he was nuts! They eat all large-mouth they catch! We stayed at anchor until July 4th as our slip at Trenton wasn't available 'til then but unfortunately, the fish gawds were not with us. Other than a few perch and some undersized small mouth bass, Steve didn't catch anything we could eat. Not for lack of trying, though!!

July 4th: Sidney's 8th birthday! Steve had a special bone for him. It was a cloudy morning and just 65 degrees...time to move on.

Trenton Ontario...entrance to the Trent-Severn Canal

Arrived at Fraser Park Marina at 2 p.m. having driven through a misty rain for several hours. We stayed for three days mainly because a dear friend from my professional days, Marg, was to visit but she couldn't get to Trenton until Friday (see above). However, the Turkey needed a bath and our refrigerator needed restocking as well so the days were well spent. Craig and Sandy, who manage the marina for the city of Trenton, were super nice people again finding space for everyone who needed a dock. Trenton is the first stop for all Loopers entering the Trent Severn so the beginning of the season (mid-June to early July) is always busy with boats coming and going.

The Trenton Farmer's Market

Though a little early in the "growing" season, the farmer's market supplied us with some local fruits and veggies along with artisan breads prior to our departure for Lock 1. Trent Severn...here we come!

Lockmaster opening the Gates on TS Waterway

July 7, departure day. After going under the bridge, we encountered our first lock of the 18 we'll encounter in the next 50 miles which will raise us 370 feet. The locks in Canada are not as sophisticated as those we have been used to considering these locks are, in many instances, over 100 years old. Going up in a lock, regardless of how far, was to be a challenge as you might surmise from some of the following pictures. Instead of securing your boat to a center floating bollard, as we were used to, there were a series of cables about 12' apart between which you set your boat so as to secure a line around a cable fore and aft. If you were lucky, you were the only boat in the lock; if not, you really had to be sure you had your boat under control because it didn't take much to slam into a companion boat! Steve and I took turns driving into the locks thus relieving some of the stress. After a few locks, however, you developed a rhythm and unless the wind was blowing, it was a piece of cake.

Looking down from the Ranney Falls Lock

Prior to leaving Trenton, we had purchased our Canal Pass and a Wall Permit. The Pass is a fee charged all boats, dependent on length, which is used to support the canal. The Wall Permit allows you to tie up to Lock Walls all along the Canal for a period of one to three days, or longer in some areas, instead of spending time in a marina. There are no services at the lock walls so one must run the generator and/or invertor for electricity. All locks have bathroom facilities and some even had showers. Sort of like camping out!

Some days we traveled short distances; some days longer dependent on the number of locks we had to get through, the sites along the way or the weather. Each lock presented the same routine although some locks were more challenging to pass through. Current was almost always a concern as the locks were alongside dams. The water level is controlled by the dams and if there were rain, for instance, the gates would be open dumping water downstream. In those instances, you pulled up to the lock wall on what was known as the "blue line" and waited until you could enter the lock chamber. Due to lock communication, the locks were generally ready for you; however, sometimes timing wasn't just right and we had to wait until boats were being locked down before we could take our turn.

The first major stop was at Hastings where we played the tourist visiting the Cheese Factory and the World's Finest Chocolate Outlet. The Cheese Factory was about a 5 mile ride outside of town which made for a good day of exercise. Since we'd stopped at the local bakery, noted for it's fresh baked muffins, we needed to burn the calories. When reading the guide books regarding the "what to do" in each recommended stop, you were soon lulled into stopping at every recommended bakery, fudge shop and ice cream store! If it weren't for a bit of restraint on our parts, we would both be Michelin dough boys by now.

Peterborough Hydraulic Lift Lock

Now we were into a routine. We would read ahead a bit in the guide books to ascertain our cruising miles. While each mile brought sites of rural solitude or urban activity, the cruising was the same. The canal was shallow nearly all of its length so we had to pay attention to water depths. Going out of the channel was out of the question as outside of it lay giant rocks of granite ready to rip into your hull or dent your props. Several cruisers had already experienced close encounters of the wrong kind and were laid up in boatyards awaiting either new rudders, wheel repair or other necessary repairs. We prayed to our Travel Angels everyday to help protect us from similar circumstances.

Close-up before entering the Peterborough Lift Lock

The major site of interest in Peterborough is the Lift Lock. Having celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2004, this lock is of significance due to its design. It is the highest hydraulic lift lock in the world with a height of 65'. Built between 1896 and 1904 of unreinforced concrete, it was the largest concrete structure in the world and was (and is) considered an engineering marvel. It raises and lowers boats in two water-filled chambers not unlike giant bathtubs. Each chamber holds 1700 tons of water. Two 7.5 foot diameter chamber rams, each with a reach of 65 feet, are connected in a closed water hydraulic system. Anything that happens in one chamber causes an equal and opposite reaction in the other chamber. The tubs are transferred, along with their cargo of boats, by adding an extra foot of water into the upper chamber. This causes the lower chamber to rise. All in a period of 2 minutes.

The lock really is a fascination. When you bring your boat into the chamber, you're at ground level. When you are at the top, you are at ground level again but it looks as though you are in one of those invisible pools. Looking backwards and down, you see where you were just minutes ago...only 65 feet below you! It was July 12th and we were going to cruise just 5.86 miles for the day.

Both sides of the canal, for the most part, had small summer cottages. Each seemed to have its' own personality and character. I loved looking at the yards and docks as each had a special something to distinguish it from the neighbors. Some had yard statues, some had beautifully landscaped gardens and patios while some had colorful furniture sitting on the dock to catch your attention.

Summer in Canada means July and August and the locals make every minute count. The population of Toronto or Ottowa, and cities in between, seemed to transport itself to the Lakes and Trent Severn to luxuriate in the beauty and casual living of the shore. While some cottages were exactly that, others were magnificent in their size and structure. We inquired as to whether these were year round or summer homes and most were summer homes. The Canadians are certainly hardy people because when the snow and cold arrive, out come the snowmobiles, sleds, and other winter sport gear though mostly enjoyed closer to their year-round homes.

The cottages were not limited to the land alongside the canal. Nearby islands were usually sites for a cottage as well and residents were transported back and forth either by the typical fishing boat or pontoon boat.

It's now the 17th of July and we're just at Bobcaygeon...not that we're in any hurry or on a schedule. Though this is just "another town" along the route, it has its own character and culture if not history. We found spending a couple of nites at each major town was beneficial in the encounters we had with the locals. We were also experiencing some very nice weather with temps in the 80's and sunny all day long. Get towards dusk, though, and you'd better close all windows and doors and turn on the AC because the Canadian B-52's would otherwise eat you alive. I swear I don't remember seeing, or hearing, so many bugs in my entire life! Guess we're not the only ones that enjoy the clear clean air!!

July 18th and we're now 200 miles on the Waterway. At Kirkfield, we took another of the two hydraulic lift locks (Peterborough was the first) and began our descent down to the Georgian Bay. We cruised on into Lake Simcoe to the Ojibway Bay Marina. Canada, of course, has a large Indian population and Ojibway is home to the Mnjikaning First Nation. This is THEIR land replete with the requisite casino. As with the Indian casinos in the US, these are large and elaborate buildings that showcase the pride of the particular tribe running the casino. The casinos are as hugely popular as in the US filled with patrons all nite long, I'm sure. The nearby community of Rama shares their name with the casino. Needless to say, we left our donation but had a wonderfully enjoyable several hours looking at everything displayed as well as playing the "jukeboxes".

We stayed only one nite here before moving on. We passed through Lake Couchiching heading for our next lock. Upon arrival at the lock, we found we had to wait on the Blue Line. We tied up with the other waiting boats then stood around visiting with the other cruisers until it was time to move into the lock. During this time, Sidney was nosing around the surrounding woods. Can you tell what is going to happen? Yup! We forgot to put him back on the boat. Out of sight; out of mind.

So, into the lock we go. We tie up and are conversing with the lockmaster and other cruisers. Steve is on the stern of the boat and while talking, notices this dog across the lock, outside the gate, that looks an awful lot like Sidney. Well, guess what, it WAS Sidney!! The lockmaster crossed over, let Sidney walk across the gates, and hop back into the boat. We all had a good laugh over that incident!! Just like the stories you hear of parents leaving their kids at the gas station.

The men and women running the locks show great pride in their work and responsibilities. Not only are they completely responsible for "their" lock, their customers (boaters using the locks), and the visitors who crowd around the locks during the working hours, they are responsible for the upkeep and maintenance of the lock grounds. Each lock had something to remember it by whether the beautiful gardens around the lockeepers house or the flower boxes on the lock gates. Not only we were completely fascinated by the pride the lockeepers had in "their" lock, we were interested in the schedule they kept. The locks open mid-May and are open until September. Each lockmaster is permanently assigned to his lock and is noted by seniority. They work 12 hour days from 7a.m to 7 p.m. when the locks close during those months. One day a week off. However, the hours they accumulate allow them to have the rest of the year off. Can you imagine? Yes, these positions are highly prized even though they work their tails off. Remember, the majority of these locks are manually operated including the gates on the dams. The manual operation of the gates means they trudge around in a circle operating the handle that opens and closes the locks. All day long! Truly a special memory!

View from the top of the Kirkfield Hydraulic Lift Lock

Hole-in-the-Wall Bridge

Perhaps one of the more interesting passages along the way was Hole-in-the-Wall Bridge. You might be able to ascertain, by the above picture, that passage through the "hole" was limited to one boat at a time...regardless of size. Additionally, the water is extremely shallow here, about 5 feet deep, so adherence to the cruising line was vitally important so as not to touch bottom. The Canadians, in their wisdom, have removed many of the day markers throughout the Trent Severn indicating the direction of travel. This is one of those areas. Once through Hole-in-the-Wall, you needed to bear to your left (port) because going right put you on the ground on top of nice hard rocks. But, there wasn't a day marker in site! You just prayed you were on the sailing line which kept you in deeper water. We made it but not without trepidation.

We could tell, by the landscape, that we were approaching Georgian Bay. Instead of rolling hills, pastureland and cottages on the shoreline, we saw moss-covered rocks, lichen, tall forests and rugged rocks. Channels cut through the land were narrow with the rocks right up to the shoreline and bleeding into the cut canal. While we saw very little wildlife through the entire canal, we did see osprey nests and hawks circling above. The Massasauga rattlesnake is a protected species we were warned about especially since Sidney is a hunting dog that loves to sniff the woods and rocks. Needless to say, we kept him close!

Swift Rapids Lock

July 19th Swift Rapids Lock, #43, just two more locks before we arrive in the Georgian Bay. This lock is a modern lock by comparison. Originally, a marine railway, built in 1919, carried boats through here but in 1965, the marine railway was replaced by this modern hydraulic system. Swift Rapids has the highest lift (or descent, in our case) of any of the conventional locks on the system, 47'. It is controlled by the lockmaster inside a tower and operates totally by computer. Once the process of emptying (or filling) the lock begins, it cannot be stopped. Again, unique to the system. Because of the remoteness of the lock, the staff commute into the lock by boat.

Our arrival at the lock was quite timely in that we were able to lock through before a major thunderstorm passed through the area. Once out of the lock, we tied to the Blue Line to await the storm passage before moving on down the road. And, yes, we made sure Sidney was on board!

Before we arrived at Big Chute, the marine railway, we passed through a narrow portion of the canal...again. A small community, Severn Falls, is at MM 228. Fairly remote from the twinkling lights of any big city, it offers an opportunity to tie up to a marina and spend the night before approaching the Railway Lock and enjoy some local cooking and/or hospitality. The 4.5 miles from here to the chute is narrow but beautiful; lush green wooded shoreline with cottages perched high up on the cliffs and large granite rocks again reminiscent of what we were to experience, in large abundance, in the Georgian Bay. Off the narrow channel, there were a few bays if one wanted to anchor out and spend one more quiet rural night before heading into the Bay. Not for us. We had already lingered nearly a month in the Trent Severn and time was awastin'! On to the railway.

Entering the Marine Railway

July 20th We had arrived at Big Chute last night and found about 5 other Loopers tied up to the public docks. During our trip through the Trent Severn, we had lost Colorado Cat but gained new friends...too many to mention and too many for my feeble mind to remember. Of note, Scott and Mary aboard Mascot, Bill and Jill aboard Transition, Steve and Jean on SunKat, and others. All waiting for their turn to trek across land, on the railway, and on to the Georgian Bay.

The weather was cool and blustery but no rain so we all gathered across from the docks in a public park for cocktails and appetizers. This is de rigour whenever a group of us gather at one spot. The girls make the "goodies", the guys are the bartenders, and we are all story-tellers. Of course, we only share the harrowing adventures as we tell of missing rocks, scraping bottom, near misses like leaving the dog behind, fish stories, etc. This, I think, is the best part of the trip...the people we've met, the friends we've made, the memories of a lifetime.

July 21st We woke to another windy day. Bright and clear...but windy. After watching the lock through process, nearly all of us decided to wait another day before we braved the marine railway. The one thing none of us took into consideration was the day...it was Friday. A decision, that while it was probably correct, we would soon come to regret.

Boat moving onto the Chute

The process of entering the Chute was rather simple. You tied up to the Blue Line and awaited a call from the operator to move up to the Chute. Normally, smaller boats were loaded first to the front of the platform and secured. Since there were few smaller boats this day, the first bigger boat was called forward and entered the chute. After placement was deemed appropriate, the operators raised the sling holding the boat in place and lowered the bow of the boat unto the floor of the platform with its stern hanging over the back so as not to damage the props.

Then, it was up, up, and away or, more correctly, over the land barrier to the other side, and

refloated. All this takes about an hour.

While we were spending the day before, waiting for the winds to lay down, we toured the area and spent several hours watching other boats crossing from one side to the other. There is a museum next to the railway that gives the history of the marine railway, its purpose, and why there isn't a lock here instead.

The original railway, built in 1917, was replaced in 1978 with a larger modernized version capable of transporting up to 100' boats. Once on the railway, it takes just 7" to move the 600' across the land barrier. Many have asked why not a lock? In 1977, when the old railway was decommissioned and the new railway was under construction, at a cost of $2.9 million, the lamprey eel was a major nuisance and the Canada Parks System did not want the eel migrating upstream via the Trent Severn. Hence, the new railway instead of a modern hydraulic lock like at Swift Rapids. Additionally, one of the first hydro-generating plants (electricity to us Americans!) sits on the site. Originally constructed in 1911, it was replaced by a modernized generating plant at the same time. The hydro plant provides electricity for the surrounding areas of Penetang and Midland. There is about an hour walking tour of the decommissioned hydro plant that gives you a perspective of how electricity is generated utilizing the available water source.

Steve and Sidney find a comfortable place to ride the Chute

After all the anticipation and worry, the Wild Turkey had her ride on the railway without incident. The operators were kind enough to check our props and bottom while the boat was in the sling to ascertain any damage. Proclaimed sound, we sighed with relief.

Arriving at the bottom of the Chute, we were splashed and on our way. We had closed our sea cocks prior to being loaded but on the way down, when we figured no water would rush out due to our degree of tilt, I rushed down and opened them so that we would have no delay leaving the railway. Off we went to the last lock on the system, Lock 45. Passing through this lock would be our grand entrance into the Georgian Bay. We were so excited to be closing another section of the Adventure.

Just after leaving the railway, we had to pass through Little Chute, a very narrow and turbulent channel. We radioed ahead to announce our impending passage since there, again, was room for only one boat. Having made that safely, we meandered down to Lock 45. Only 8 miles.

Approaching the lock, it became apparent that we were going to have to wait. Not unusual since this was Saturday and always a busy boating day, regardless of weather, and this was no exception. The problem was the lack of space to just hang out 'til your turn to lock through in addition to the fact this is the smallest lock in the system and can take only one big boat at a time along with a number of small boats.

Believe it or not, there must have been 30 boats milling around in a small bay in front of the lock. There were two public docks to tie to in addition to room for one boat on the blue line. You had to be there to understand the free-for-all!. What a ZOO! especially since the wind was blowing at 15 knots (about +16 mph).

But, we made it...FINALLY. We were on our way to Beacon Bay Marina in Penetanguishine across the way about 15 miles.

We're now in Georgian Bay. It's July 21st. And another chapter is closed.