The Erie Canal

Boston was behind us and now it was time to have Waterford behind us. July 14th; we were set to begin the first real segment of our great adventure.

Leaving the dock at a bright and early 7 a.m., we headed over to get "pumped out". The Erie Canal and the Hudson River are both "no discharge" zones so the "tank" has to be pumped out and not dumped out. By 9 a.m., we were ready to enter the first lock of the "Waterford Flight"; Lock 2 was the first of a flight of 5 locks that took us up 169' in less than 2 miles. The locks are quite old although some of them have been either rebuilt or refurbished. While in the lock, one holds on to two ropes, one forward and one aft, while water fills the chamber. The first one was a little scary but we quickly got the hang of it and managed the next 4 locks without any problem. For our ride up, we had two other boats with us.

The little boat you see above is an example of the many work boats on the canal. Some are a little larger but they are all involved in canal maintenance. Many of the workboats are over 50 years old and some as old as 100 years...and they're all still working!!

The canal itself is a wonder. Built and finished in 1812, it was the connection to NY Harbor for the interior of NY State. The actual canal is no longer used since technology enabled the "taming" of the Mohawk River which has become the Erie Canal. Slow cruising is not only the best way to enjoy the 160 mi but is actually necessary since the canal is narrow with many houses, docks and small boats along its length. The best part of the canal are the numerous places where one can tie up to for free. Some of the canal walls have electricity and maybe water but most do not provide any service other than to allow you a place to tie up for the nite and sleep...though not quietly. The railroad track runs along the canal banks for nearly the full length of the canal so regardless, one will hear trains the entire nite long. Fortunately for me, once I fell asleep, the only train I heard was in the early morning and I was ready to get up anyway.

Our first stop was at Lock 8. As previously reported, Steve took our alternator to Schenectady (not Syracuse) for repair which was about 4 miles north of Lock 8. We tied up and waited for the repair shop to deliver the part to our boat. Can you believe that?? Our cruise up to 8 was through some rolling hillsides with farms and cows the only appearances.

Another wonderful part of the canal system is the provision of a bike path the entire length of the canal-way. Some paved, some just dirt/gravel but there for your use. Joan and I spent nearly every morning walking for an hour enjoying the peace, spotting different critters, and tightening up our butts. For sure we'll miss that part of the canal even more than anything else.

Our cruising hours were short because there were just too many places to stop. Lock 12 was next. As we cruised up the canal to the lock, we passed by probably one of the biggest private residences I've ever seen. And what a spectacular view they have but unfortunately too far away for me to get a picture. Get this: five floors, 30,000 square feet, 15 fireplaces, 10 bathrooms, an indoor pool and a bar with two portholes that look underwater into the pool. Think you could live there? Wonder how many maids it takes to keep the place clean? not to mention the gardeners etc.!! Must admit, I was impressed.

After craning my neck around in 15 circles taking in all that surrounded us, we headed up to the Lock wall at #12. Again, a very rural setting but with plenty to look at. We had lunch under the trees then headed for our walk across the bridge/canal for a visit to Fort Hunter.

Just across the bridge, there was the sign noted in the above picture. I know there are plenty of repeat city names from state to state, but I think this is the first time I've seen a city carrying the name of a state...and Florida no less. We were more than amused. The Fort Hunter Museum carries lots of memorabilia from the days of canal building. And, it is close to the site of the original Erie Canal so one can really appreciate how things were in the "olden days". Back then (1812), they moved earth and rocks and sunk retaining walls etc all without much mechanical help. Just backbreaking human muscle. And also nearby is a shrine (Our Lady of Martyrs) commemorating 7 Jesuit priests who were killed by the Mohawks in 1646. It was more than a bit of a walk to see it so we just committed it to memory. The volunteer at the museum was full of information and facts so we managed quite a stay at the museum before we hoofed it back across the bridge to Happy Hour on the Turkey.

Weather is still cooperating but relatively cool...for me...Steve's lovin' it! However rain was in the forecast and upstate can sure use it!

Next stop: Canajoharie. For those of you interested, it means "pot that washes itself" referring to a gorge south of the city where the water "seeths continuously". This is another of the quaint villages along the canal. Last year, the floods of upstate NY were monumental flooding many of these canal-side towns with up to 20' of water. Here I was eager to stop at the Art Museum (part of the local library) housing Gramma Moses and Winslow Homer paintings but the museum/library was a catastrophe of the floods. Both closed for renovation and not to open until fall at the earliest. The BeechNut factory, the main employer here, was also closed: a real economic disaster for the region as it served as the main employer for the locals. One can tell there are problems as many of the storefronts are boarded up.

Several years ago, we met a couple from West Palm Beach cruising on a catamaran. Ken and Mary were "blue water sailors" having sailed to the islands and south to Trinidad. One of Mary's hobbies was taking pictures of any church she could find. So, I find myself taking pictures for her as we travel from town to town but only if I think they are interesting. The above church, in Canajoharie, was lovely not only in architecture but in the rolling, well-manicured and landscaped setting. Catholic, too!

Onward. Lock 17, at Little Falls, offers the highest lift on the waterway; 40.5'. This is my vantage point while "riding up"

And, here's Steve's. He's holding onto one of the nasty ropes keeping our boat in position while being locked up!

Next stop: Ilion NY.

It's here that Colorado Cat and Wild Turkey parted ways. When I told Steve that the manufacturing facility for Remington Arms was in Ilion, there was no question we were stopping...and staying. Meanwhile, Joan and Steve had no interest in touring the plant so they headed west and we've seen little of them since. We'll catch up somewhere along the way.

The Remington Arms plant and museum were located a short walk from the marina. The first day of our arrival, we spent at the dock as rain was threatening...and then arrived. The restaurant just on the dock served great barbeque pork sandwiches so we had our lunch and dinner there after we docked. Then, the next day, we headed for the 10 a.m. tour of the Remington plant and museum. Steve was happy as a lark! to be seeing the actual manufacturing plant. It is absolutely huge and in the same facility as when the plant began in 1816. Of course, over the years, it has been enlarged and now much of the work is done by machines. They employ about 700 people compared to over 2000 in years previous. The custom work is done in a special area of the plant which was pretty open for the tour. Much of the remainder of the plant was unavailable though the tour lasted an hour. Remington has one guy that does all the engraving on the custom guns. He's been with them for over 30 years and does it all by hand. The museum had an entire array of guns from the year they began manufacturing so that was pretty interesting to see the before and now of a shotgun.

We headed back to the boat for some R&R before heading out the next day. Our friends, Roger and Dixie Olsen, from Johnstown CO, called to find us. They were in Herkimer which was about 1.5 miles behind us so they cast off from that dock and headed up to Ilion. We spent the rest of the day with them and their Portugese Water Dog, Skipper. Sidney and Skipper became fast friends and wore each other out playing on the dock grounds.

It was June 21st and summer solstice at 2 p.m. Summer is officially upon us and sure enough, here came the rain! Planning on departing for our next stop in the morning. Don, the dockmaster, was such a great guy offering to give us another nite free if we stayed in Ilion but it was time to head to our next destination; Utica NY. So, along with Bubbles, the name of Roger and Dixie's boat, we left the dock around 10 for the few miles up to Utica.

Roger and I were taking pictures of each other's boats as we locked up together. Utica ended up being a wonderful stop just to get some shopping done and for me to get my nails done...especially my toes!! The town dock is situated just before a bridge that goes over to a major shopping area. Just before the bridge is the continuation of the Erie Canal Bike Path so we took Sidney for his long walks along the path. Utica is a large town, comparably, but with not much to invite us to stay, we left the next morning for the trip to Sylvan Beach, just on the east shore of Oneida Lake.

Colorado Cat and another of our cruising "new" acquaintances, Caribbean Dream, were already tied up at the wall when we arrived in Sylvan Beach and having beers on the lawn under a nice big oak tree. So, we tied up, took the lawn chairs, and joined them.

Sylvan Beach is locally known as the "Atlantic City" of New York. Honestly don't know why because there are no casinos. It is truly a beach town and caters extensively to the "biker" crowd. Being on the shore of Oneida Lake, 20 miles in diameter, it is hugely popular with upstate NY residents as a beach weekend town. As you can tell by the photo above, the kids know how to enjoy! Remember those days? These kids were trying to get their pontoon boat back to shore by swimming. Their engine had died. You could see one of the guys on the cell phone trying to get assistance. So funny! they got to the wall, started the engine, left, the engine died, they drifted for a while, and then the engine started again just as the two swimmers jumped off the boat to swim it back to shore...again!! Wonder how many cans of Bud it took to accomplish this feat??

We took a walk after dinner along the shoreline for about 4 miles: all beach houses while the main street through town is all beach shops and restaurants. We found an ice cream store and since it was still in the 80's at nearly 9 p.m., we indulged.

Quite the family, eh? There are tons of Canadian geese and Mallards along the canal route. Since this is early summer, we have seen huge numbers of them along with their ducklings and goslings. This family was pretty brave and swam right up to the boat...probably thinking they were going to get fed.

We left the next morning for Phoenix, just before Lock #1 on the Oswego River. First stop, however, was for fuel in Brewerton NY across Lake Oneida. Winter Harbor Marina is noted for its lowest fuel prices on the canal so they pump tons of diesel. For us, we hope it's enough to get through the majority of Canada where the fuel prices are astronomical.

After fueling, we headed to Lock #21, the second "down" lock on the canal, then on to the confluence of the Oswego, Seneca and Mohawk Rivers; Three Rivers. We hooked a right-hand turn and picked up the Oswego River and into Phoenix for the night. Colorado Cat had joined us at Sylvan Beach and would be with us up to Oswego.

Phoenix was an interesting stop. The town is at Lock #1 on the Oswego River. There is a beautiful park just at the dock walls run and maintained by the city. Picnic tables, umbrella's, gazebo's etc along with flowers so one of the nicest places along the canal. The best part was the "Bridge House Brats". These kids all volunteer hours of their time each day to welcome cruisers who tie up to the wall, run errands for us, get us lunch from local restaurants if desired, free lemonade, wash boats...you name it, they do it. Kids, girls and boys, ages 9-15. And, they are on the dock at 7 a.m.!! Go figure!!

Lock 1 on the Oswego River heading into Oswego NY which is our jumping off point across Lake Ontario into Canada. 6 more locks to go and they are all downhill!!!!!!!!!!! Tonite, we're tying up to the lock wall above lock 8 until Friday when we will leave for Kingston Ontario. Well, actually Bath Ontario which is slightly west of Kingston. Unfortunately for us, we will hit Canada just in time to help them celebrate Canada Days on July 1. We're a bit ahead of schedule so we couldn't find a marina in Kingston to sit at through the holiday! Never mind, we'll be in a littler town and will have to do Kingston next year!

For now, I'd better close this section of our adventure and get ready to head to the local Farmer's Market here in Oswego. After managing to find a hair salon to trim my tresses and hide the grey, I feel as though I can show my face in public again!

Hope you enjoyed this little synopsis of our travels through the Erie Canal. Our next update will be as I can since we'll be in Canada with sporadic access to the Internet. Meanwhile, have a great summer. Be safe.